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3. Impériale
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Chimère T 
Impériale directe T 
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Impériale directe 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dick Willmott, early 60's
Page Views: 632
Submitted By: rocknice2 on Jun 16, 2014  with updates from Jerome St-Michel

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BETA PHOTO: Imperial

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Description 

This classic has a hard start in an awkward left facing dihedral. Climb up and over small roof. Now look for a flake on the right and climb that [easier but tricky gear] or climb the right facing corner above [variation 10b]. Finish easily in a hand crack to a bolted anchor. 100'

The Arkenstone variation is done by climbing Arkentsone which is the massive traverse across the cliff through a wide horizontal crack. At the end of the traverse, you have to finish on the face that is on your right-hand side and that has bolts on it. I think there are two (2) bolts.

Pitch 2:
Up and left is a short head-wall with another hand crack. Climb this to another anchor on a ledge and the base of 'The Crown'.

Location 

About 30' left of the spectacular finger crack of Sceptre.

Protection 

Micro cams up to #2 Camalot


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Rock Climbing Photo: Imperial Directe
BETA PHOTO: Imperial Directe

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By Jerome St-Michel
From: Montreal, QUÉBEC
Aug 6, 2016

There is an error in the description. The detail and topo line about the Arkenstone variation is wrong. The green line on the topo is just a section of another climb called « L’imperial ».

The Arkenstone variation is done by climbing Arkentsone which is the massive traverse across the cliff through a wide horizontal crack, and by finish on the face that is on your right-hand side and that has bolts on it. I think there are two (2) bolts.

Well the error comes from the old guidebook (p.136). They fucked up while adding the little circled (54) number.

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