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Impenetrable Ceilings  

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R [details]
FA: Russ Clune (after the hold broke)
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: akline on Jun 13, 2017

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Description 

This route really just revolves around a hard, committing boulder problem through a roof. You get good gear up to the roof on the easy climbing, and then there is good gear to get set up for the first hard move, but then the climbing is on small edges and one good hold that is questionable in quality. If this questionable hold broke, the fall would be bad. Overall the climbing is fun, but the rock quality brings it down a little.

This climb shares the same start as Grapenuts, about 20 feet left of the easy corner start of Scotch on the Rocks. Climb easy crack terrain to a jug under the big roof, then work your way out left to good holds at the lip of the roof. Climb through a boulder problem and another roof, and you are done.

Location 

Just left of Grapenuts. There is currently a fixed wire resides in the roof before the crux.

Protection 

Standard rack, with tiny cams for protection after the hard moves. Above the roofs, you can traverse right to an anchor above Grapenuts.


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