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Impending Doom 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: David Bruneau, Jackson P.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 62
Submitted By: David Bruneau on Jun 30, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Impending Doom Dihedral

Description 

This route goes up the appealing (at least more than its surroundings) hanging dihedral in the middle of the blasted section of Main Face. The climbing is pretty good, but the structure of the rock becomes increasingly disconcerting as you move further off the ground. There is still loose rock on the pitch, the obvious holds that I easily tore off at the crux suggested that this was likely a FA. It would be a nice climb if given a good cleaning and a rappel anchor 2/3rds of the way up but the rock structure makes me hesitant to do this.

Starting on a cube shaped boulder, climb the left side of the easy, slabby face up to the hanging corner. Climb the corner past an awkward crux to some unpleasant, gravelly moves onto a grassy ledge. Continue upwards then grovel through the blocky, overhung slot to top out. Belay off some trees. Top out by scrambling over some very slick shrubs - staying on belay here is a good idea.

Location 

Way south of all the good routes

Protection 

Standard rack to 3", doubles of blue mastercam size is a good idea. Ballnuts. Tree anchor.


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