Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Palisade
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Mama, The T 
Immoral Disapproval T 
Nachoooo T 

Immoral Disapproval 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Season: Fall, Spring
Page Views: 988
Submitted By: Scotty Nelson on Oct 24, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The amazing hand crack transition!

Description 

The route climbs the east side of the Palisade prow.

P1: Climb a short, 5.10, hands splitter to a large ledge, 30'.

P2: Go up an offwidth (5.10) to an alcove (optional gear belay). Continue up a left-facing corner to a bolted anchor below the obvious splitter.

P3: Climb the hands to fingers to hands splitter (100') ending on a ledge with bolted anchors.

Descent: rappel the route with 2 ropes.

Protection 

Triple set to #4, extra #1s for the crux pitch.


Photos of Immoral Disapproval Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Scoping the Palisade from town.
Scoping the Palisade from town.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chilling with Vern, Charles' dad and an old uraniu...
Chilling with Vern, Charles' dad and an old uraniu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Asa on the 3rd pitch.
Asa on the 3rd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Asa starting up the crux third pitch on the first ...
Asa starting up the crux third pitch on the first ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching Immoral Disapproval on the first ascen...
Approaching Immoral Disapproval on the first ascen...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 climbs a short, 30 foot, hand crack.
Pitch 1 climbs a short, 30 foot, hand crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 offwidth and Pitch 3 splitter are visible ...
Pitch 2 offwidth and Pitch 3 splitter are visible ...

Comments on Immoral Disapproval Add Comment
Show which comments
By rob pizem
Feb 10, 2013

I took 2 #4s and a #5, and that was nice on the second pitch. You can do the route with one 80m rope, and you do not need to take a tag line for the raps. Also you can leave all the gear bigger than 3 inch at the top of pitch two, you do not need it for the last pitch.
Finally, the beginning of pitch two has a LOOSE pillar/block, be very careful about moving about on it. I was able to sway it but not remove it 'cause it's 20ft tall.
Otherwise, great route!