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Imminent Domain 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: JD Borgeson on Apr 11, 2017

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Description 

An often overlooked, but excellent moderate face climb on gear. The rock quality is superb above the slightly chossy start. Gear is somewhat straight forward. typical AR face trad, be prepared to sling chickenheads.

Climb the bendy crack using holds all about (looks chossy but climbs really well) till you get to the base of the roof and the first placements (5.8, PG). place a piece or two in the big horizontal crack and fire the crux to get established on the face. head straight up for a while placing funky gear until you get to the bomber nut placement near the top that you can see from the ground. from hear traverse straight right, then up, as the wall kind of blanks out here. finish straight up above the bulge to find a bolted anchor. prepare to rap, as it is only hangers, no rings.

Location 

route just left of smooth operator. bendy crack up to a roof with good holds above and below. has an obvious sidepull/flake type feature above the roof. a second small roof exists near the anchors.

Protection 

one or two #3 C4s for the crux, then mostly small gear, nuts and slinging chickenheads.


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By Andrew B. Ellis
Apr 16, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Cool climb with good movement. We rappelled down to the anchors and set this up as a toprope. Tricky to clean, as you don't want to rap from the hangars (no chain/rap rings) I climbed above and then rapped down from a sturdy tree to clean it.

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