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Imja Tse (Island Peak)

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South Face 

Imja Tse (Island Peak) Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 20,305'
Location: 27.9225, 86.9361 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 843
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Evan Ratzan on Jan 20, 2015
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Island Peak from just below basecamp

Summiting Requires Permit and NMA Certified Guide MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Island peak is viewable from Chhukung and there are signs pointing to the trail as you leave town. The peak can be approached easily through an obvious trail that crosses a series of rocky stream beds from south. When you initially see the peak from the southeast, you need to continue around it, keeping the peak to the north of you as you progress toward lake Imja Tse. This means keeping the peak to your left and base camp is near the latrines. There is an option for a high camp at ~17,500 which follows the trail (see south face description) to a higher plateau. An alpine start around 2am is reasonable, depending on fitness level and weather conditions. Typically, winds begin to get pretty fierce around 10am, which means that descent should be underway by then.

Getting There 

Typically, foreigners arrive in Kathmandhu and from there you have two options.
1) is you get mules and trek for 10 days to Lukla with camping gear, food, porters, and climbing gear enough to last an additional 8 days of trekking to get to base camp after you get to Lukla.
2) You can fly to Lukla direct from Kathmandu in 30 minutes for around 30000-40000 rupees,and there is about 8 days of trekking to get to base camp. On the flight, you are limited to 15 kg of total gear, and are charged for each additional kg.

The trekking time before base camp varies with your level of fitness, and there are well developed towns stocked with electricity, gear, food, water, and toilets all the way up to Chukhung (Chhukung) 15,518ft (4,730m) which means camping is discouraged, and requires you to carry a bunch of extra unneccessary weight. You can rent gear in Chukhung but I would recommend bringing the following personal gear up with you: dynamic rope, ice axe, crampons, stove, boots and sleeping bag. Big items like tents can be rented the day before basecamp. I believe you can rent pickets, ice screws, and a helmet as well.

Climbing Season

For the Asia area.

Weather station 6.6 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Imja Tse (Island Peak)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Imja Tse (Island Peak):
South Face        Alpine, 1 pitch, 3800'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Imja Tse (Island Peak)

Featured Route For Imja Tse (Island Peak)
Rock Climbing Photo: Headwall Before Fals Summit ~19,000. January 1, 20...

South Face   Asia : South Asia : ... : Imja Tse (Island Peak)
From basecamp at ~16,500, the climb begins with a series of switchback traverses past high camp at ~18,000ft on a relatively well packed trail. There is then a short section of 3rd class scrambling up narrow gullies which begins just above high camp, and there were occasional 4th class moves, but was pretty much hiking on stable rock for the majority of the approach. Eventually, well above high camp you reach a very short ridge traverse of a few hundred feet before you hit glacier, snow, and h...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Imja Tse (Island Peak) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Island Peak from Chhuukung Approach
Island Peak from Chhuukung Approach

Comments on Imja Tse (Island Peak) Add Comment
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By Evan Ratzan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 20, 2015
I climbed most of this route, but did not summit due to inclement weather (wind and visibility) and medical complications. If you have summit photos or route descriptions of the top out, please post them and help flesh out this page a little more! As a side note, on conditions of the January 1, 2015 attempt, it was unseasonably warm and hardly required a parka, no boot covers, balaclava, or down mitts, temperatures barely dipped below freezing in the sun but it snowed and became colder at night.

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