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IMAX Experience T 

IMAX Experience 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Derek Field, Giselle Fernandez (April 2017)
New Route: Yes
Season: Shady all day
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: Derek Field on Apr 25, 2017

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IMAX Experience topo.

Description 

The IMAX Experience is a proud wide crack that splits the steep north face of IMAX Tower. An exceptional backcountry adventure: exciting climbing on outlandish rock with nobody in sight. The three-dimensional features are just as wild as they look from a distance.

Be aware of the risk/commitment factor: IMAX Tower is located in a seldom-traveled part of Sedona, and there is no fixed anchor until the top.

Pitch 1: (5.7) Scramble up a chossy 4th-class staircase to gain a major ledge 25 feet off the ground. Plug a nest of cams (.3 to .75 with long runners) into a corner crack before traversing left onto the face, passing one bolt. Gear belay on huge ledge below the main chimney system.

Pitch 2: (5.8+) Head straight up into the featured chimney, passing a crux bulge early. Gear belay on one of many Floating Platforms in the alcove below the big roof.

Pitch 3: (5.10-) Wild! Use the Floating Platforms to climb out to the lip of the massive roof. Crank over on perfect hands, continue up some wide stuff and mantel more Floating Platforms into a nook inside a short cubic alcove. Gear belay using small stuff.

Pitch 4: (5.10) Climb out the short easy chimney to a sloping ledge where the crack jogs left about ten feet. Stem/squeeze up a funtime flare to a severely undercut shelf that is surmounted using patina holds and much grunting. Continue up the wide crack to a platform just below the summit. Walk 20 feet right along this ledge and belay from the two-bolt chain anchor.

Rappel: One big free-hanging rap back down the north face. You will not touch the wall for a looong way down. Admire the wicked sandstone features as you spin around in space. I am not sure of the exact length but it's around 200 feet. We made it with two seventies; I can't say whether sixties would get you all the way down. If your sixties don't make it, you have the option of landing on the ledge 25 feet off the ground and reversing the first pitch (horizontal traverse).

Location 

Wide crack splitting the north face of IMAX Tower.

Protection 

Doubles: .3 to 4 camalot
Singles: 5 and 6 camalot
(new BD sizes)


Photos of IMAX Experience Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Enter the theatre from the right, please. Giselle ...
Enter the theatre from the right, please. Giselle ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Giselle getting stemmy below the crux on P2. This ...
Giselle getting stemmy below the crux on P2. This ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Having a blast with the 3D features on the second ...
Having a blast with the 3D features on the second ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Giselle looking up the start of P3 ("The Floa...
Giselle looking up the start of P3 ("The Floa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading out the big roof on P3 using the Floating ...
Leading out the big roof on P3 using the Floating ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Giselle past the roof on P3.
Giselle past the roof on P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Giselle at the crux roof on P4. Near the top of th...
Giselle at the crux roof on P4. Near the top of th...

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