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BETA PHOTO: Imagine on left
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
A beautiful line that just feels out of reach. The crack does not begin for a good 15 feet. Either boulder up there on nothing or climb another crack to the right and traverse in on nothing. Either way, be prepared for a delicate start. The middle section has many pods to rest in and the final 20 feet are amazing .75s.
On the flat wall about 80 feet to the right of Emmanator.
.4 to #2. Extra on the .75 range, maybe 6 or so.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 1, 2014
I made a half-assed attempt at the direct start but was too scared (I tried to place sliders but they ripped when I hand tested them). Next I did the 100% Yourself start and went up to where I could get a solid purple TCU with a sling and tried traversing at a few different heights (maybe 15, 10 and 5 feet up. I broke a bunch of holds, kept backing off, and finally blew it trying a very low traverse. In the end I swung over to about 10 feet up and just started climbing from there and did the rest of the climb (which was very good!). I suck at slab climbing, especially when in my floppy Moccs, and the bottom sequence is still a mystery to me!
Anchor definitely needs chain and probably new bolts.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Apr 5, 2017
It's unfortunate that this route doesn't have one or two bolts at the bottom to protect the start. The rest of the climb looks great but the crux is obviously getting to the crack and not worth the potential ground fall. Such a waste.