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Illustration Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Noah Stevens
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Jason Stevens on Mar 25, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Photo showing the Illustration Arete on the far le...

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Description 

Climbs the arete right of the water couloir that separates the Cobble Roof and the EFS wall. Crux is at the last two bolts on a fun vertical section.

Location 

Far left hand side of the EFS wall, first route right of the couloir. The Couloir separates the Cobble Roof and the EFS wall

Protection 

Bolts, chain anchors. This entire route was developed with Wave Bolt glue-ins.


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By Rob Phillips
Jul 25, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

AVOID THIS ROUTE!!! Its position on the arete is pleasing to the eye, but that's where the niceties end. It is so incredibly loose and dirty that it is honestly dangerous to the climber and the belayer in my opinion. I pulled out two cantaloupe sized cobbles with my bare hands. To top it all off, the anchor is in poor rock and the chains are not equalized which adds even greater stress. The average 5.7 climber is not prepared to do the kind of cleaning that this route still requires as of July 2017.
By bus driver
Jul 25, 2017

Keep in mind you may be within the first 5 people to touch the route. It's a shame it will never get enough traffic to get cleaned up now that your comment is here.

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