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Illegal Smile 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom E. & Tom A., 1982
Page Views: 2,741
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Sep 8, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Pitch one.


The rock itself is separated (by a huge boulder) into two sections...a slabby area on the left that leads to a second pitch headwall, and an ampitheater on the right that contains some solid one pitch cracks. This is the furthest right of the routes in the amphitheater.

Starts out with some nice widish jams for about 20-30 feet. Step left over a bulge to a nice finger crack. The finger crack didn't like my stoppers too much, but was easily sewed up with a green Alien. In a way, these moves reminded me of the first pitch of Pear Buttress at Lumpy. Continue up the finger crack that widens so thin hands, and cruise past an easy bulge to the top. Walk off right. Fun.

Eds. note, this was submitted initially as Flake Route.


Hand size for the botton, TCUs for the finger crack, and a couple mid range cams for the top.

Photos of Illegal Smile Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Southeast face.
BETA PHOTO: Southeast face.
Rock Climbing Photo: You climb over a bush to start, and you can sew it...
BETA PHOTO: You climb over a bush to start, and you can sew it...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brenda at the Illegal Smile anchors.  (Route share...
Brenda at the Illegal Smile anchors. (Route share...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brenda works on her crack climbing technique on Il...
Brenda works on her crack climbing technique on Il...
Rock Climbing Photo: Illegal Smile.
BETA PHOTO: Illegal Smile.

Comments on Illegal Smile Add Comment
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By Barrett Cooper
Feb 14, 2003

number 7
By Ken Heiser
From: Boulder, CO
May 25, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I really loved this little route.Super rock great holds and great moves. Even a chickenhead at the top!!
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 3, 2004

That girl in the picture is smok'in hot!!!! Someone should marry that girl!
By Darin Lang
Jun 10, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

All of the alcove routes are great, but this was the best of the bunch. This might make a good first lead for someone who has done some crack climbing, as the crux is short and all the gear can be placed from good stances.
By Tom A.
From: Co. Springs
Jan 29, 2008

This was named Illegal Smile. 1st ascent was in 1982 by myself with Tom E. following, was 5.8 at the time and sounds like it still is. Also a great John Prine song.
By England
From: ?
Aug 24, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very fun climb. The only thing about this area that freaks me out a bit is the large rock(roof) above the anchors looks like it's about to fall off. Photo of the lady on this page is not Illegal Smile.
By Alex A
Apr 17, 2010

Fun and good pro, for some for reason it was called the Flake Route, in the Platte guide, the photo of the women on 1st pitch is not the 5.8 at the alcove it's not Illegal Smile, note there are trees at the base, I think she's on the Caped One.

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