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I'll Have a Kir 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Jeff Mahoney
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: Jeff Mahoney on May 12, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The crux section of "I'll Have a Kir." (...

Description 

This route is the semi-obvious and recently cleaned roof/corner at the far left section of Wall 5. (Not to be confused with the even more obvious and not recently cleaned roof of "I Can See Something Moving" to the left.) A surprisingly fun and almost safe-feeling free solo.

Rock Climbing Photo: The starting crack of "I'll Have a Kir."...
The starting crack of "I'll Have a Kir." The oak branches have been cut back and you can actually see where you're supposed to go from the ground now.


Start on the easy, inviting crack that takes you to a large ledge popping out over the oak tree. Continue up a few more moves to a smaller ledge below the recess and the horn. Get up on the horn and then move up into the chimney-ish wide crack below the chockstone. Get over the chockstone and finish up on top. You can follow the loose trail along the top to the right and then over to the rap station, or bushwhack a bit to the left and downclimb loose stuff to get back to the base.

Protection 

It will probably take decent gear throughout (a #4 for sure).


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