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Ill Communication 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mike Snyder, P1 - 2004. P2, 3 & 4 - 2015
Page Views: 220
Submitted By: Mike Snyder on Oct 12, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Ill Communication 5.12a/b

Description 

An old creation, that now goes to the summit! All bolts, all free, totally badass!

Pitch 1 - Climb straight up the center of this wall to the faint dihedral just left of the obvious prow feature. The crux is literally the last move before reaching a ledge. .12b - 100 feet.
Alternate 1st pitch - Climb Can You Hear Me Now? .12a/b to the same ledge. Maybe even bad-asser.
Pitch 2 - Step to the left off the ledge and mount the exposed prow or tick tack up little edges. There are several ledges to pass on this short pitch. .10c, 50 feet
Pitch 3 - The munge pitch. The obligatory passage that must be overcome to reach the glory of the final pitch. Its actually not that bad. Shoot up the white dihedral skirting to the right to by pass as much of the black asphalt section as possible. Grab the bomber gray pinches and traverse back left atop the asphalt to reach the left trending flake system. The roof above is the crux. Wrestle this bastard and ease your way up the crimp face/prow above. Scamper past lower angle mungy jugs to the anchor. .11d, 100 feet.
Pitch 4 - Oh my! Heaven awaits! If this pitch were on the SMW or at the Island there would be a line around the block to climb it. The first 20 feet of climbing in the white rock is on previously flaky but cleaned jugs leading up into the good gray rock and finally the reddish brown patinaed stone that is generally the best rock in the canyon. Climbing brilliance to the summit. .11d, 90 feet

The chains are a few feet below the summit to make for a clean rappel. I recommend clipping the chains with enough slack so you can sit on the summit with your feet dangling in space while you belay your partner up using the high bolt on the boulder as a redirect. The view is... well go see for yourself.

Location 

This route goes up the dead center of this wall ascending the prow.

Protection 

P1 - 9 clips - Chain anchors
P2 - 3 clips - Ring anchors
P3 - 12 clips - Chain anchors
P4 - 12 clips - Chain anchors


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