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Sunset Cliff
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Avenger, The T 
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I'll be Black S 
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I'll be Black 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Perkins, M. Stricklen, 1991
Page Views: 3,187
Submitted By: j wharton on Jun 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Finishing the first crux at the second bolt.

Description 

This is an excellent, thin face climb which climbs the obvious black streak. A few thin moves at 2/3rds height provide the crux.

Location 

This is located above a ledge system approximately 30' above the base of the crag - it requires a short 4th-class scramble to reach the base.

Protection 

Bolts to a chain anchor.


Photos of I'll be Black Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The final crux. From here, you move left and up to...
The final crux. From here, you move left and up to...
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving right after the initial crux.
Moving right after the initial crux.

Comments on I'll be Black Add Comment
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By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Jun 23, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is a great route but it might be slightly sandbagged.
By Tom T
Aug 14, 2008

A total sandbag IMO.....balancy, sequential crux on tiny feet and direction-dependent hand holds. I could have missed some key beta or just be a wuss, but I'd give 'er a 10d redpoint or 11a onsight.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Sep 9, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'd say 10d/11a is a bit much. I was thinking more along the lines of 10c, but grades are so subjective anyway.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 15, 2010

Clipping the second bolt pretty much sucked. Clipping it from below you'd be in the middle of a crux move with a ledge fall. I was able to clip it leaning off the crack on the right, but even that was a bit dicey. This was a great climb, and a great looking climb, with hard moves sometimes above the bolts but with good rests in between.
By Meredith DB
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2011

This climb is amazingly fun. Must do.
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Prob a bit harder than 10b and with some spacey bolts, but a stellar route. Rare when a granite sport climb reminds me of climbing limestone....
By sdrockstar81
From: el cajon, CA
Oct 23, 2015

If I'm not mistaken Clancy (Mike) Stricklen spotted the route and made the first ascent, Tom Perkins followed him up this one.