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YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,080
Submitted By: grumpyhighlander on Oct 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Good use of the jutting block

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


A right facing dihedral with big hands and fists, first a bulge that reminds you of incredible hand crack then over a jutting block with good hand in the back up to an awkward sandy finish with good chicken wing move and small pockets on the right wall. Anchors are hard to see from the ground on a big ledge on the right.


just to the right of Solo East


1x #2 Camamlot, 3x #3camalot, 2x#3.5camalot, 1x#4camalot for the top,

Photos of I&I Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jerrin using up the #3 camalots
Jerrin using up the #3 camalots

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By OldManRiver
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Nov 25, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

There are some big sections.. having 3 #4s was very helpful... and I tugged on a cam once. So maybe not so much of a flash ;)
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
Aug 23, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Admin folk……. we measured this on and it is 90 feet

Big fists or stacks for small hands…… fun stuff. The anchor is in a poor location with loads of rope drag…..
By Ray Lovestead
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 30, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This thing is begging to get a second pitch in. Looks like #6 and big bros and steep!
By Bill Lundeen
From: Lee Vining, CA
Oct 29, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Great short route on very good rock. Burly for small hands; good practice for the harder big cups/fist stuff. Had a #5 along and placed it, but I agree that another 4 would have been enough.

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