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Echo Rock - E Face (Left)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bambi Meets Godzilla T 
Beadwagon T 
Closed on Mondays T 
Finger Food T 
Frumunda Cheese T 
Gumby Saves Bambi T 
Igor Prince of Poodles T 
Lot Lizard TR 
Menace, The S 
Mother Trucker T 
Second Thoughts T 

Igor Prince of Poodles 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: Charles Cole & Karen Peil, 1991
Page Views: 757
Submitted By: Will S on Nov 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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John Stark belaying. Me on point. Fun route gets y...


This bolted face route, immediately right of Finger Food, is continuously difficult, tenuous, and interesting climbing for the first 30' after which it eases a bit to more straightforward JT slab work. Stem, palm, crimp and smear your way up the shallow corner until it disappears and a decent face hold and crimpy dike appear. Engineer a sequence to mount these and you can finally rest and compose yourself for the upper half of the pitch.


Immediately right of Finger Food.


Bolted, but poorly, IMO. If you fall clipping the second bolt, you will deck. Ideally there would be another bolt between 1 and 2, but there isn't and the moves there could well be the crux. A bold lead for sure considering the insecurity of the climbing. Once the second bolt is clipped, the route is safe enough. I'd recommend either a stick clip or crashpad unless you are super dialed on 11+ JT friction and stemming.

Photos of Igor Prince of Poodles Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Igor Price of Poodles, #1663
BETA PHOTO: Igor Price of Poodles, #1663

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By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Bishop
Feb 21, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

I've led this twice now. There is a risk of groundfall while clipping the second bolt, but it is also a pretty secure stance (secure per the route). An excellent route nonetheless.
By C Miller
From: CA
Feb 21, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Thin and insecure through the lower portion with some tenuous clips, overall a great test of footwork and body positioning. If leading consider a crashpad and/or a single locking biner on the 1st bolt.

Hand-drilled ground-up from stances on the first ascent.
Feb 22, 2012

A long time ago (mid '90s?), a friend of mine went to climb this and ripped a substancial hold from the middle of the route. We weren't sure if it was still climbable after that. Is it still climbable?
By C Miller
From: CA
Feb 22, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Yes, still climbable at the given grade - it sounds like your friend gave you bad beta.
Feb 28, 2012

The thing clocked me in me melon - it felt substancial!I remember thinking "the only hold on the route, and he rips it off". Prolly spent the rest of the day bouldering after that.

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