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Routes in 11: Bill's Buttress
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Agnostic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Breakfast of Champions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cheatah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coatimundi Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dark Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dogleg T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Escalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grand Inquisitor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Ignominy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Lysurgic Ledge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Prophet's Honor T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Russian Gadgets T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Sour Queen TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Talk to the Animals TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tiger TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 916 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Doug Hemken on Jun 7, 2010 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
A fun excursion with an alpine feel.
It was once the practice to climb this route with a point of aid. If you are short, you will still see the logic in the old approach. Zimmerman and Smith state wryly "This is an unprecedented opportunity to push your free climbing past the thresholds of yesterday."
The crux is behind the little pine tree about 20-30 feet up. This used to be aid, then it went free at F5. The latest guidebook calls it 5.4. Could be 5.6 or 5.7 if you're really short. Fortunately the hold you throw for is really big and really flat.
Finish in the dihedral as for Cheatah (which would make this 5.7), or wind around the nose to the left for easier, blocky ledges that are more in keeping with the rest of the route.
It was once the practice to climb this route with a point of aid. If you are short, you will still see the logic in the old approach. Zimmerman and Smith state wryly "This is an unprecedented opportunity to push your free climbing past the thresholds of yesterday."
The crux is behind the little pine tree about 20-30 feet up. This used to be aid, then it went free at F5. The latest guidebook calls it 5.4. Could be 5.6 or 5.7 if you're really short. Fortunately the hold you throw for is really big and really flat.
Finish in the dihedral as for Cheatah (which would make this 5.7), or wind around the nose to the left for easier, blocky ledges that are more in keeping with the rest of the route.
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