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If your day ain't going right, go left 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
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Submitted By: HelenL on Jun 15, 2017

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Description 

Pitch #3 (final pitch) of an easy multi-pitch - good to practice. Big traverse directly left. When following, the fall could be like a lead fall - unclip after passing the bolt where possible, to minimize length of possible fall.

Protection 

bolts

Description 

Pitch #3 (final pitch) of an easy multi-pitch - good to practice.

Protection 

bolts


Comments on If your day ain't going right, go left Add Comment
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By HelenL
From: Toronto, Canada
Jul 4, 2017

Actually, I did it (and did traverse left) as part of a multipitch course with Leslie Timms (she is known to be one of the best climbers around here: leslietimms.ca). She also runs guiding company, On The Rocks: ontherocksclimbing.com/

I put in the links so people can check her credentials and contact her about your concerns or for more info, should you desire. She is the one who set these 2 top pitches, actually, and turned it into an easy multipitch in order to use it for teaching.

Although the traverse is rated at an easy grade, I did find the climb mentally scary, even as a follower, due to the possible traverse fall which would be a bit like a lead fall in this instance. Leslie suggested to move past the bolt before unclipping in order to lessen the length of the fall. My friend lead the route successfully. It is physically possible - just be aware of the possible traverse fall and manage accordingly; however, the route itself is not difficult (lots of holds for both hands and feet). Neither of us fell or had to take during this multipitch.

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