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If You Don't Leave Me, I'll Find Someone Who Will 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bernard Gillet and Paul Bodnar, 2003
Page Views: 298
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Jan 27, 2011

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Description 

This route ascends a finger- and hand-crack to a roof. Going straight up through the roof keeps the grade at 9 while traversing right at the obvious flake to the next crack is mid-10 (flared jams; small feet; there's a perfect #0.75 Camalot to protect the traverse right).

Location 

This route is on the Top 40 Wall (see Third Band overview photo for the location). One can access this by continuing right from Space Balls to a rappel anchor atop Flying Fish. Rappel down and you'll be at the left margin of the Top 40 Wall.

The descent is a third-class scramble to the climber's right.

Protection 

Standard rack; emphasize smaller cams and small to medium stoppers. Hand-size cams are useful for the belay.


Comments on If You Don't Leave Me, I'll Find Someone Who Will Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
Mar 30, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Instead of traversing off to the right at the first ledge, one can continue upward on fun, well-protected, blocky climbing. Then, choose between a scruffy corner on the left or straight up a nice piece of unprotected, but easy slab. This deposits you on a big ledge with a tree and webbing for rappelling (climber's left about 50 feet).

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