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If I Told You I'd Have to Kill You 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bruce Pottenger, Jeff Neer: 1/1990
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: john durr on Apr 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

If I Told You is a great technical face climb with one crimpy hard move, bolt at your face just over a small roof. Great holds and excellent movement on this one.

Morning sun.

Location 

This is to the right of Valley 5.8 and starts on the same ledge.

Protection 

6 bolts to hooks, a 0.5 or 0.75 cam under the roof is possible, but really isn't needed. Gear to anchor your belayer on the starting ledge may be wise.


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By brucy
Apr 13, 2016

This climb, as of some 5 years and running, has largely lost a crucial left handhold that used to exist over the roof that allowed the crux move to occur. Like much of the Owens Gorge, this has- with the passage of so much traffic- eroded out. This route now largely requires a fairly stiff dyno to the finishing hold, of some length. Only the most naive con themselves into blithely thinking that the Gorge is "unchanging" from one year to the next- it's not. 11a- not even close!
By joedirtbag
Nov 3, 2016

have to agree, this thing felt 11d/12a. hard right crimp and rocking out over a tenuous left foot to a big left reach. felt sandbagged at 11a for sure. still goes and the crimping is quality.

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