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If I Ran the Circus 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 1,034
Submitted By: Caleb Phillips on Jul 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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If I ran the circus

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Climb up an easy flake, then lieback or jam through a roof and fist-crack. Beach yourself on the bulge using a big ledge and then enjoy easy climbing to the anchors. A little awkward but worth doing.


Line starting at the large left-leaning flake which is right of Woman in the Meadow.


The bottom 2/3 could be easily protected with gear. Has 2 hangers up top for a TR anchor.

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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Sep 9, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Good burly fun! I placed a #4 camalot, but one could do without.
By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
May 3, 2012

grovel grovel grovel!
By Phill T
May 18, 2012

if you are TRing this, flick your rope into the main crack before you start the undercling area. If you dont and blow it, you take a big swing (no big deal) but then your rope grinds on the pretty sharp edge of the roof when you swing back in. No bueno. Super fun route tho!
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Aug 4, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I thought this to be an incredibly stiff 10b. After moving right under the roof, placing gear can be really difficult, as you're being forced away from the wall by the roof, and desperately laying back the edge without any decent jams and crazy high feet. Not terribly difficult on TR but definitely makes a heady lead.

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