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If I Only 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Season: Not a summer climb.
Page Views: 216
Submitted By: Marta Reece on Jan 15, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Start of the route (up the middle of the image). P...


The route goes up the left-most crack system on the south facing wall. The crux is the first technical move, going past a slightly overhanging band. It is protectable, though. Above that, the climbing is awkward for a bit, then fairly straightforward. Belay from the small tree you come to just as you get to the west facing side. This is the same "small tree" as on the West Face of Lambda Wall. You can rap from here or continue up West Face.


Toward the left end of south face of Lambda Wall. Go left on the ledge at the base of Wizard of Ooze. (The nice ledge with a tree on it to shade waiting dogs.) Continue left along the cliff little past the step up.


Standard rack.

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By Marta Reece
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jan 22, 2014

This route was originally posted under the name "Bastard," which we took from an old topo of the Lambda Wall. After discussion with some of the people who climbed the real Bastard back in the day, it was clear that this line is not the same, and therefore in need of a new name. The real Bastard will join it in time. Sorry about the confusion.
By Karl Kiser
Jul 5, 2016

This route must be close to the old Farewell to Arms (I haven't done it). And I heard that Farewell to Arms had a variation which linked to Wizard of Ooze (less than good pro?).

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