If I Had a Hammer
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(Referred to in the guidebook as Ethics are for Maggots)
The original route name has been restored to this climb (due to a clarifying conversation with one of the first ascentionists.) Although the original start for this route un-aesthetically began by ascending 20 feet of low-angled, grassy/dirty rock to gain the ledge for traversing 20 feet to the right to reach the good climbing (done with this start it barely deserves 2 stars), it is highly recommended to use the start of Hairlip BJ Ecstasy for quality, sustained climbing and far less rope-drag. This route was recently cleaned, and is a multi-cruxed, challenging, and quality line! With the direct start, this line may be a candidate for all three stars. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)
Start by climbing up the prominent right-leaning crack of Hairlip BJ Ecstasy, to a point approximately six feet below the location where the parallel crack to its left originates. There is a tiny roof out left at this point. Long-runner the protection, step out left under this roof, protect with small TCUs, and move up (first crux) a shallow left-facing corner past a fixed pin to a jug that helps gain the left crack which comprises the remainder of the route. The second and third cruxes come during and after the next big roof, and end at a ledge. A final short, steep wall harboring one last crux leads to the top anchors.
Upper left end of the wall.
Pro to 4"
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 12, 2009
Talked to Dave Jones about this route and Hairlip... today. He also had interesting FA stories about Stampede and Absinthe... on Sheepshead dome in the stronghold.
From: Tucson, AZ
May 13, 2009
Yeah, I liked those stories, too. Dave is a hell of a cool guy. :)