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The Dungeon
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5000 Candles in the Wind T 
Backdoor Man S 
Branching Out S 
Executioner, The T 
If and Only If S 
Implements of Destruction S 
New Beginnings  T 
Number of the Beast, The S 
Rat Dance T 
Ride Around the Block T 
Soaked in Sin T 
Tanuki T 
Two in the Pink T 
Uncertainty Principle , The T 
Unshackled S 
Zed's Dead T 

If and Only If 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Dave Montgomery & Craig Faulhaber, 6/17
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer/Fall
Page Views: 721
Submitted By: Monty on Jun 23, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Cruxin'! Photo by Rob Kepley.

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Description 

If and Only If (iff) is a burly little number that climbs out the steepest part of the Dungeon. Climb steep corner-like features to a two bolt long crux sequence that culminates with a heartbreaking move to a thank God jug. Hold on through easier but pumpy terrain to the chains.

This is a pretty special route for me as it is one of my hardest redpoints, and I got it 2.5 months after my first child was born. Summon your inner Dad strength, and enjoy!

Location 

It is between Zed's Dead and Tanuki in the center of the steep wall.

Protection 

11 bolts and a kneebar pad or two.

Note: the first 7 bolts have permadraws, so you only need 4 draws. The first several draws were heinous to clean!


Photos of If and Only If Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fighting the pump in the crux of iff.
Fighting the pump in the crux of iff.

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By Monty
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Jun 23, 2017

I'm guessing the grade will settle around 13b, but the pumpy nature of the climbing makes it hard to grade. I was able to do all of the moves on the first day, but it took a long time for me build up the fitness necessary to put it all together.
By Craig Faulhaber
Jun 29, 2017
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

The overhanging crux with many sidepull options is a bit reminiscent of s00pr kr33m in the Flatirons, but this is more difficult and sustained in my opinion. Go do it!

Fantastic climb, thanks for all of the bolts and belays, Dave!
By Alex A
Jul 5, 2017

Congratulations the FA, I think I heard you YELL, with JOY, the day you sent it.

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