Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
High Wire Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5th of July S 
Ace in the Hole S 
Bouncer S 
Bypass S 
Contrarian, The T 
Cracker Jack S 
Deuces Wild S 
Everyday Struggle S 
Full House S 
Ghetto Activity S 
Ghetto Head S 
Head Up Dirty S 
Hip at the Lip S 
Idiot Savant S 
Idiot's Roof T 
Indirect Savant S 
Jackpot S 
Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) T 
Life After Death S 
Machine Gun Funk S 
Moderate Dihedral T 
Nickels and Dimes S 
Notorious S 
Overpass S,TR 
Passing Lane S 
People's Choice S 
Poker Face S,TR 
Pony Up S 
Power Play T,S 
Road Kill S 
Road Rash Roof S 
Road Warrior S 
Savage, The S 
Slot Machine S 
Stone Cold Moderate S 
Via Comatose Amigo S 
Wild Card S 

Idiot's Roof 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: unknown... Kurt Smith?
Page Views: 1,284
Submitted By: mlloyd on Apr 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The anchors are just off the photo.

Raptor Closures - 2016 Tunnel 2 Closure Lifted / Upper Canyon Road closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This trad route starts on a flat bit of ground 20 feet uphill from "Head Up Dirty" just downhill from the monster roof. Start below a single bolt. Climb past the single bolt and a challenging boulder problem to a thin, right-facing corner with a finger-size crack in the back. Climb through a juggy roof with decent gear to a left-facing corner (which makes up the left side of the monster roof). Clip a bolt next to the crack, and climb higher than you think before busting right on jugs to another bolt and then to a bolted belay 15 feet, just around the corner.

Don't get suckered into climbing through the roof to early, there is a bolt in the roof for another unfinished climb.

I found this route without anchors and with lots of choss. As of 4/15/12, I (Matt Lloyd) have added anchors (and other pitch above it) as well as cleaning it up. The route is worth the hike and will certainly get better with as people climb it.

It is a little dirty, but it has steep, well-protected, trad climbing.

From the anchors, you can climb the next amazing pitch, "Everyday Struggle", 5.10d, which goes to the top of the wall.

Location 

This route starts on a flat bit of ground 20 feet uphill from "Head Up Dirty" just downhill from the monster roof.

Protection 

A single rack with draws and gear from #0.3 to 2 Camalots.


Photos of Idiot's Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Keith North.
Photo by Keith North.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jose busting it out. Photo by Keith North.
Jose busting it out. Photo by Keith North.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jose coming up to the anchors and the belay for th...
Jose coming up to the anchors and the belay for th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Lloyd sending Idiot's Roof after cleaning it ...
Matt Lloyd sending Idiot's Roof after cleaning it ...

Comments on Idiot's Roof Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dougald MacDonald
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

When this route gets just a little cleaner, it will be a genuine classic. Much steeper than it looks from the ground. Wish I had read the beta about going higher than you think in the crack. Tried to exit directly past the bolt. Fail.
By monkeyvanya
From: Denver, CO
Sep 6, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Got sucked into going too high above the second bolt and ended up traversing right at anchor level rather than next bolt. Rock was fragile, but climbing was in low 5.10 range.