REI Community
Lower Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aids Victim T,S 
Amy Carter T 
Bird's Nest Overhang T 
Blood Transfusion T 
Bone, The T 
Brass Balls T 
Catapult T 
Clean Love T 
Fault, The T 
Flying Frog T 
Idiot's Delight T 
Idiots journey T 
Mr. Clean T 
PG Advised T,S 
Shriek of the Mutilated T 
Smut T 
Vertebrae., The T 

Idiots journey 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Geoff Georges, Jessica Todd
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: geoff georges on Oct 23, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is one of many variations leading up the lower Castle Rock wall connecting Amy Carter to Idiots Delight. There are many long lost climbs on Castle, where one runs into ancient pitons. I think this is unclimbed, loose, dirty and lots of plant life, Cleaner now, and pretty fun moves, RFC, hand jams, stemming, pull through steep corner up to ledge with 2) 1/4" bolts and leeper hangers

Location 

This route could be a 2nd pitch of Amy Carter or Flying Frog on the far right end of Lower Castle Rock. If you continue past Amy Carter, pass a maple tree, bolt anchor and blocky ledge( this is where you would go up onto the slab for Idiots Delight, hard to protect), drop down right into RFC, go up steep corner. The Fault goes further right up lower angle slab and arching undercling crack.

Protection 

Standard rack, save #2 and 3 for the top out.
Good cracks for gear near the old bolts. But watch out for the block directly right of the bolts, it is loose, cracks above it are good.


Comments on Idiots journey Add Comment
Show which comments
By BenJamN
From: Washington State
May 8, 2015

This route as described has been climbed previously and a couple variations. as earliest as the late 80s but definitely over 10 years ago; alternate endings too. all previously unreported. 1st done date is about as known as some of the boulderings around Leavenworth.
Despite the uncertainty of the FA day, it is a fun jaunt and takes one to below the giant large roof on the right of Lower castle. from this point, many options including Idiots delight, bird-nest overhang, the finishing pitch to the fault, gorilla desperado, and Squeak of humiliated are all somewhat less traveled alternatives to the constant queue of catipult. as with all routes on castle; expect a little funk maybe some dirt and definitely some adventure.
Good name!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About