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Idiot Savant 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
Season: Summer (Evening) Winter (Morning)
Page Views: 792
Submitted By: Eduardo Ramirez on Feb 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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A short but pumpy route with a couple different variations.


1)No Exp. Start (5.6)- Start on the obivious crack left of the direct start under the first bolt. Climb to the big ledge and traverse right staying low to the first bolt.

2)DIRECT Start (5.11) - Start directly under the first bolt. Get high feet and throw to a crimp directly above the first bolt (short person beta) or throw for the ledge a bit higher than the crimp.


1)Undercling(5.10+) - Follow the undercling and clip the two bolts above it. Continue cliff right on smeared feet until you can reach for the hold above the undercling to traverse left and slightly above the anchor.

2)DIRECT (5.11) - Once you clip the second and third(last) bolt, make big moves on small face features left onto the face of the undercling instead of following the undercling right.


The first sport route left of Dewey Used to Love it (5.10)


Three Bolts and a rusted cold shut anchor.

Photos of Idiot Savant Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Phillip M. Flash
Phillip M. Flash
Rock Climbing Photo: Trundlasaurus Wall  Lincoln Smith leads  Idiot Sav...
Trundlasaurus Wall Lincoln Smith leads Idiot Sav...

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By Robert Hutchins
Apr 15, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Boulder start may be closer to 11-, but certainly doesn't make the red-point difficulty harder than 10+. The more traditionaly done flake finish is probably not any harder than 10-, though not particularly secure in humid conditions. Not one of my favorite routes in the area, but worth trying if you've ticked everything else. Climbs more like a boulder problem in my opinion.

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