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Icy Fingers 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bill Kees, 1974 (according to Johnston & Fowler, 2005)
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Jun 28, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Icy Fingers (5.8), Cracked Canyon, Ophir, CO.


Climb the wide-ish crack system, with a few chimney-ish moves enroute to the top. Pro either the back of the crack, or find ancillary placements on the adjacent faces. This is nicely sustained with great stances where needed.

Note: This is route #25 in Johnston and Fowler (2005:93), who apparently gave it the incorrect name and rating. I was informed by a knowledgeable local (who has climbed with Mr. Kees) that this is actually the crack named "Icy Fingers", and is not Limey Peel. (Apparently, no one knows exactly where Limey Peel really is). And the next crack to the right (#26) is not Icy Fingers, but is a ~5.9 of unknown name.

If anyone knows this information to be in error, let me know and I will amend.


This is located on the western wall, a couple hundred feet up from the canyon mouth, a little ways left of Orange Peel.

Bolts with webbing/cord and biners provide a top anchor.


Single rack of cams; a #4 C4 is useful.

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