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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A0 R

Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A0 R [details]
FA: D.Bingham, B.Grubbs
Season: Not Summer
Page Views: 123
Submitted By: sean peters on Feb 13, 2016

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The guidebook (Phoenix Rock) states that this route was waiting for its first free ascent and that there are no hangers in place. Put up in 1971 one has to wonder if it ever happened? On our quest to climb most of the listed routes in the guidebook we had our chance to see what we could do in a mere 50 feet. We ended up getting the ascent clean and true to the book, no hangers were in place!
A semi-tough start on finicky thin gear up to a horn and the hanger less bolt. Easier climbing leads to the physical crux and again with a bolt less face move (use a wire nut to hitch the bolt head). Figure out the tricky moves that lead to the nice summit.
The difficult face move felt like a hard 5.10 to 5.11. Good luck.


The route is on the detached 50 foot pinnacle on the north east side of the formation. If you look carefully you will be able to see the "bolt". The opening moves consist of a quick finger traverse out right before climbing up to grab the horn.


Small cams and two thin wired nuts to use on the hanger less bolts. Rappel off the top via one 45 year old bolt.

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