REI Community
Cliffs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Dihedral  T 
5.8- crack T 
Black Arete T,S 
Coyote's Tooth T 
Fringe Dweller S 
Green Arete S 
Ichabod T 
Ichabod Direct T 
Kuntz T 
Regurgitator T 
Unnamed 1 S 
Unnamed 2 T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Ichabod 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Season: year round
Page Views: 285
Submitted By: Furthermore on Mar 29, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The large crack is Ichabod.

Description 

This fine crack leads to the top of the cliff, but only the first two pitches are worth doing. The third is choss.

Look for a two bolt anchor (there are not many) with an angling crack to the right. This is the start.

Pitch 1: 40 feet, 5.10b/c. Start on 5.8 terrain to a nice, thin, hand crack finish. The 5.10b/c is only a few moves near the top and protects very well. 1 bolt, 1 pin anchor.

Pitch 2: 60 feet, 5.8. Continue up the featured crack with fun pockets. Near the top it is extremely loose. 2 bolt anchor. Did I mention super loose?

Pitch 3: 40 feet, 5.6-7? I didn't do this pitch, but looking at the garbage on the ledge before the final headwall, it didn't seem worth it.

A 60m rope will be just enough rope to rappel from the top of the second pitch.

Location 

It is 150 feet to the left of Coyote's Tooth.

Protection 

Standard trad rack. Helmet.


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