|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||markguycan on Jul 14, 2008 with updates from Neil Kauffman|
|Access limited from May to October every year MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Cardiovascular Seizure||Add Comment|
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From: mesa, az
Jul 15, 2008
Crux is 5.11- but a great line, though a bit grungy it's worth it, espectially the last airy pitch.
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Oct 10, 2014
|Wow, way to dig out an obscure climb. I always wondered where this route went. Was this in a more recent guide? The only place I ever read an account of it was a typically vague description in an old AAJ. FA: Galen Rowell and I think Vern Clevenger. Don't quote me on the latter though.|
From: flagstaff, AZ
Oct 30, 2014
|We had hoped we were embarking on a FA but discovered a few rusty pitons along the way.|
By Dave Stimson
From: Pincher Creek
Sep 6, 2016
A little scaly, but a phenomenal line and some really stellar crack climbing! Give the spectators down at Iceberg something to watch other than the usual Butt-Face parties.
I don't think the corner at 5.9 is a viable alternative to the crux pitch. The main corner looked pretty loose and bottoming... maybe 5.9 R/X. Unless there was another corner to the right...
The descent beta wasn't very helpful. We went to the north side and did some exposed 4th/low 5th down climbing to a large ledge (about a half pitch). We were able to link together more ledges, but I think a hard traverse to the west on the big ledge would take you right out to a scree/talus slope. There was also a new rap station on the top of the "Iceberg Spire" that looked like it dropped you onto the south side to ledges and then worked down into a gully feature. Not sure about the details on this...