Ice tools and self-arresting
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When I went out to the Alps last summer I brought one of my 50cm ice tools and one 57cm Camp Alpina which is similar to the BD Venoms. I had brought the latter because I wanted something that was better at self-arresting than my technical tools. I had no trouble leading AI4 with this setup and the longer tool also worked a lot better as a cane on the slogs. |
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Disagree with TDog on the ice tool thing (but agree with him on the responsibilities of the partnership). On stuff like the image below, I only go with ice tools and have to do plenty of glacier crossing. There are slopes I also need to cross that being able to self arrest is nice if you mess up. Now on Liberty Ridge you don't need modern high tech ice tools and definately not leashless. For stuff like that I use my old, old ice tools (my BD Black Prophets from 1993/4ish) and put a pick that isn't so aggressive. There are more modern choices that would be similar. |
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youtube.com/watch?v=vlaBehE…
I feel like this move is basically a self arrest, and it doesn't seem so hard... On the other hand though, he is using leashes... Then again...at 5:25 there is some pretty compelling evidence that they don't work so well... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxtg7raPDYo&feature=related |
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John Maguire wrote:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlaBehEZDEg I feel like this move is basically a self arrest, and it doesn't seem so hard... On the other hand though, he is using leashes... Then again...at 5:25 there is some pretty compelling evidence that they don't work so well... youtube.com/watch?v=uxtg7ra…what they forgot to show is the shoulder surgery afterwords...... but it does seem pretty straight forward to me and thats why you can never trust those cams |
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Self arresting on high angle terrain doesnt work 99% of the time. For glacier travel I like to rock a BD whipit and a technical tool with a hammer for pounding in pickets. Try Pounding in a picket while holding a crack fall with a Mtn. axe with a adze. Plus having two technical tools for alpine ice climbing makes it more safe and faster. Take the basket off of your whipit and you have a good tool to plunge, pull bergshrunds and poke around for cracks. Thats what we rock in the rotten Wrangells of AK. |