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Chapel Pond Canyon
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Ice Storm 

WI5+ M5 PG13

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'
Original: WI5+ M5 PG13 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,475
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Mar 17, 2013

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On the upper column of Ice Storm.

Description 

One of the testpieces of Chapel Pond; steep, sustained, and rare.

In the center of the face, climb an ice hose to a shallow cave 30' up. There's good rock gear here, and in the horizontals left of the cave. Traverse left 6' (or more depending on where the ice forms that year), then go straight up to the top.

Rappel from trees at the top.

The start is shared with several routes: Bubba (which goes straight up from the cave) and Buford (which traverses right from the cave, then goes up).

Location 

The route is located on the sheer wall left of Hot Shot. Several routes share a common start -- the ice hose that leads to a shallow cave 30' up.

Protection 

Rock gear to 1" at the cave and traverse; otherwise ice screws (stubbies).


Photos of Ice Storm Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ice Storm 2016-01-24
BETA PHOTO: Ice Storm 2016-01-24
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower section of Ice Storm.
Lower section of Ice Storm.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on the upper curtain of Ice Storm. This ph...
Climber on the upper curtain of Ice Storm. This ph...

Comments on Ice Storm Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luc-514
Administrator
From: Montreal, Quebec
Jan 25, 2016

You can setup a top rope with a 70m on the Ice Storm wall by climbing up Hot Shot, up the little gully and going climber's left where you'll need to go back down a couple ledges (be careful!).
There's a bunch of cord all over the place, please be aware of what you use (found one where the loose ends were buried in the snow) and install rings /quicklinks if you leave something up there.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Jan 3, 2017

Regarding the toprope comment above: this route (and the others on this wall) rarely forms, and when it does, the ice is fragile. I recommend against toproping it unless you can really treat it delicately.

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