REI Community
search
Advanced
Chapel Pond Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buford T 
Geek, The 
Haggis and Cold Toast 
Hot Shot 
Ice Slot 
Ice Storm 
Lions on the Beach 
Midnight Cruiser 
Positive Reinforcement 
Post Purchase Dissonance T,TR 
Quinn the Eskimo 
Rule of the Bone 
Turbo T 
Whales in the Jungle T 

Ice Slot 

WI4-

   
Type:  Ice, 1 pitch, 100'
Original: WI4- [details]
FA: 
Season: Winter
Page Views: 2,648
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Feb 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Ice Slot

Description 

Short, blue bulge in the beginning, then a pleasant stemming corner to an optional belay ledge (used to set up a TR on "Your Mother"--WI 5), then choose which exit you want to tackle---A short, but vertical pillar, or a exit right through a short bulge.

Location 

Left-facing flow 50 feet to the right of Hot Shot. Choose your exit...either left up a vertical pillar or escape right.

Protection 

Screws, draws, screamers.


Photos of Ice Slot Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ice Slot 2016-01-24
BETA PHOTO: Ice Slot 2016-01-24
Rock Climbing Photo: Ice Slot in exceptionally fat condition.  You can ...
Ice Slot in exceptionally fat condition. You can ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ice Slot December 2010
Ice Slot December 2010

Comments on Ice Slot Add Comment
Show which comments
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Sep 18, 2011
rating: WI4-

I found nothing pleasant about stemming the corner on this thing. My crampons were scraping the verglass on the right hand side and the ice was thin on the left - topping out the stem corner was ugly. Then again, I am not a graceful ice climber in the least.
By Ben Brotelho
From: Albany, NY
Feb 3, 2012

When the middle cave-like pillar is broken or just unformed, this can feel pretty tricky! I followed it and it was very fun. I enjoyed stemming on very hollow delicate pillar on the left and pulling some funky moves to get out from behind the broken curtain.

quite fun
By Bill Kirby
From: Baltimore Maryland
Mar 23, 2013

Ice Slot was huge this year! Very straight forward.

Your Mama was the fattest it's ever been too. Blue Lines rates Your Mama as a 4+... What?
By Gunkiemike
Jan 14, 2014

When the central pillar isn't big enough, you can go up and left a bit then make a pin-protected high step back right. This turned out to be a critical move for me a year ago after a cold spell (-18 F) stressed the aforementioned pillar. To me, it just looked sketchy and I wanted nothing to do with it. Sure enough, a climber shortly afterwards committed to it, with rather disastrous results (pillar shattered, broken arm).
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Mar 6, 2014
rating: WI4-

Mike your story doesn't surprise me at all. That central pillar always looks/feels sketchy to me and I can only imagine what -18 degree temps would do to it.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About