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Apr 10, 2012
Would a 11cm ice screw be too short for any real pro on waterfall ice?

???
NYClimber
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
15 points
Apr 10, 2012
Depends on the quality of the ice........

I watched a "Stubby" in testing at Black Diamond and was surprised at the holding power......

BUT always follow the first rule in ice climbing......

NEVER FALL
Jim Amidon
Joined Jun 12, 2001
475 points
Apr 10, 2012
How true! OK, thanks! NYClimber
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
15 points
Apr 10, 2012
Had a friend fall on a mixed climb....had only a 10cm with a Screamer attached...total length of fall was 15-20 feet...Screamer activated to it's fullest length...10 cm held the fall with the friend upside down looking his belayer in the eyes...so yeah, in good ice they do work.. Harry Richardson
Joined Apr 12, 2010
0 points
Apr 10, 2012
OK cool and thanks. NYClimber
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
15 points
Apr 10, 2012
I place mostly 13's and when I'm worried about bottoming out a screw I'll sink a 10.
but yeah mostly just don't fall leading ice. It's not so much that I'm worried about screws pulling, I'm worried about breaking my ankles/putting a tool through my femoral artery.
Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Feb 8, 2010
165 points
Apr 10, 2012
Yeah I hear ya...some 25 yrs ago one of my buds broke his ankle when he fell top roping a WI climb when one of his crampon points snagged as he fell. Not good! NYClimber
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
15 points


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