Ice House Roof
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Betsy Grant drilling second anchor bolt under the ...
A quality climb that features steep, crimpy 5.8 climbing past the corner of an arch, then pulling through the 5.9 crux on the third pitch up and over the middle of one of the major features of the entire wall, a long roof.
P1, all bolts. This climb starts out 5.8 from the ground, then easier climbing up a broad white water streak that flows up to the corner of the big arch (not the roof, which you can't see from ground). Follow the bolts straight up to the corner of the arch then 5.8 again on steeper rock past the arch. The climb then traverses right into a long white water streak (that falls over the middle of the arch) to a two-bolt ring anchor.
P2. One bolt, 5.5. From the anchor climb a short easy one-bolt pitch following the narrowing water streak to a two-bolt anchor that sets you up below the big roof.
P3, one bolt. The third pitch continues to follow the water streaks through the roof (5.9) and ends at another two-bolt anchor with an easy walk off to the right off the face. The reach moves through the roof are height dependent so if you are shorter than about 5’ 8” they are probably more like 5.10 moves. A bolt protects the move over the roof. You can bypass the difficulty by traversing well to the right under the roof until it can be easily surmounted (5.5R), then traversing back left into the water streaks. Skipping the roof gives the climb an overall 5.8 rating. If you think you might skip the roof by climbing around it then bring a few small cams, as you will miss the bolt but there is a crack higher up. All belay stations have rings so you can rap the route or walk off.
Look for broad white water streak that leads up to the left corner of the big arch. The climb goes up that water streak (but then later traverses right to another water streak).
On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 8.
All bolts. Rings at each belay station.
Belyn Grant on second ascent of Ice House Roof (Pi...
From: Rancho Cordova,CA
Jul 21, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Classic 3 pitch route. I led P1 & P3, Partner P2. P3 is the business over the roof and defines this awesome route.