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Crystal Wall Area
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Arch Traverse S 
Crystal Blue Persuasion S 
Crystal Chute T 
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Friction Affliction T 
Ice House Roof S 
Ice House Roof Direct S 
Independence Wall S 
More Affliction T 
Red Dawn S 

Ice House Roof Direct 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 165
Submitted By: Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Ice House Roof Direct, P1


Climb up Ice House Roof almost to the corner of the arch, but instead of starting up the steep "ladder" section past the arch, traverse right under the corner and look for a bolt on the wall above the arch that protects the moves over the Arch. And up you go. Maybe. Then work right above the arch past two bolts then up on steep face climbing (follow the water streaks) to the belay anchor, where it joins the regular route. We found and replaced an old ¼” buttonhead bolt where the second bolt is above the arch, so it is possible the move to get above the arch has been done previously.

On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 9.



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By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Sep 18, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Fun but committing pitch. The one jug over the roof turns into a balancey mantle with thin feet. A fall at that point might be ugly (with rope stretch).

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