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The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse)
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Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: M. Rolofson, K.Trout, R. Leitner & C. Alber on Jan. 24, 1998
Season: faces E/SE, avoid in hot weather
Page Views: 117
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 29, 2016

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  • Description 

    This is a chunky-looking climb with a height-dependent start that might be the crux for shorter climbers.

    There are 2 small detached towers at the base of Solar Dome. This route is the higher, East-facing route on the higher of the two towers. Start off in the afternoon shade at the base by clipping the first bolt prior to doing any moves, which is possible for a man of average height. If you can't reach this, then you might also find the opening moves harder than 11-. Reach up and left into a thin but sinker spot on the obvious flake, and paste a foot to hoist up and onto larger holds above. Climb up these, generally working up and right to the anchors up top. Note where the anchors are and that a few traverse moves will be required on the climb as opposed to riding the left arete the whole way. The holds are generally good, but a few might surprise you by being sloper if you don't feel around for the right spots on them.

    Overall, this is a climb that is better than it looks.

    Location 

    It is on the upper right side of the upper of two small towers/boulders below the right side of Solar Dome.

    Protection 

    4 bolts to a bolt/chain anchor.


    Comments on Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob Add Comment
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    By Mark Rolofson
    Mar 15, 2017
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    First ascent: Mark Rolofson, Ken Trout, Rick Leitner & Chris Alber on Jan. 24, 1998. There are 4 bolts / 2 rings. I never thought it felt as easy as .11a.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Mar 16, 2017

    Mark,
    Thanks for the info. I have amended the route description with this.
    As for the grade, This one is likely quite height/reach-dependent.
    Aside of the general subjectivity of grades overall, I try to fairly account for my rather abnormal wingspan....
    "If you can't reach this, then you might also find the opening moves harder than 11-."
    So I won't quibble a bit about the grade.

    Thanks for the info.

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