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Ice Cream Parlor

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10 TR S,TR 
5.6 Corner T 
A Good Day to Die T 
Bastardized Old Route T 
Black Slab S 
Brewed Awakenings T 
Brush Your Teeth T,S 
Coffin Crack T 
Crack 1 T 
Crack 2 T 
Crack 3 T 
Critical Mass T 
Epidemic T 
Freezer Burn T,S 
Hot Karl Sunday S 
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 
Jumbletron, The T 
Knee Grinder T 
Kura Buran S 
Left Slab S 
Linda's Way T 
Nightlight T,S 
Pandemic T 
Parlor Game S 
Plush S 
Pork Soda T 
Possessed S 
Rain S 
Rattler T 
RP City T 
Slab Route S 
Space Ghost T 
Sticky Fingers S 
T-Rex T,S 
Vanilla Cream T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Ice Cream Parlor Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.5092, -109.5995 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 71,227
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Greg D on May 12, 2002
This Afternoon

64° | 44°

73° | 49°

73° | 53°

70° | 51°

75° | 53°

79° | 54°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Great climbing on mostly excellent wingate in a beautiful canyon. It has some of the easiest climbing in the area. As a result, it sees a lot of visits from local guides with sometimes a dozen clients or more as well as large unguided groups. So expect crowds. Also, the road sees loads of ATV's which are loud and dusty. So, go on a weekday if possible.

There are several bolted slab routes as well as several crack routes. The difficulty ranges from 5.5 bolts to 5.12 trad, so there is something for everybody. Most routes are single pitch with anchors. But, there are a handful of multi pitch as well.

The lower left has some harder multi pitch. The slabs in the middle have lots of moderates and a few harder routes. The steeper rock to the right has some of the areas best routes but sees less traffic and is accessed by a ledge on the right.

The crag is west facing. So, it is great in the afternoon when it is cool and great in the mornings when it is hot.

Getting There 

From Main St in Moab head west on Kane Creek Blvd (near McDonald's). After the pavement ends you will begin to enter into Kane Creek Canyon. Drive about 3.6 miles (YMMV) down into the canyon. The potable natural spring is at 2.2 miles, so check your milage here and extrapolate for your odometer. After a creek crossing (which is dry most of the year) the road turns sharply to the left. There is some parking near large boulders here but many people drive another 100 yards and park on the road. The access trail is better there.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.8 miles from here

35 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Ice Cream Parlor:
5.6 Corner   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 50'   
Black Slab   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 50'   
Slab Route   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Crack 1   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   
Critical Mass   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Crack 3   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   
Crack 2   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   
Coffin Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
A Good Day to Die   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Parlor Game   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Brush Your Teeth   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Rain   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Nightlight   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Space Ghost   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   
Plush   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Sticky Fingers   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
RP City   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hot Karl Sunday   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   
Ice Cream Parlor Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
T-Rex   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 350'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Ice Cream Parlor

Featured Route For Ice Cream Parlor
Rock Climbing Photo: Any Questions?

RP City 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13  Utah : Moab Area : ... : Ice Cream Parlor
This is a great route as it tests your nerves more than anything.Start up easy cracks and ledges. Then commit to the thin seam up and left. Place gear when it is available because placements are intermittent but good when you get them, although gear may occupy your only hold at times. When the crack peters out move up and left to the 2 bolt anchor.In the middle of the climb you can move out left, do a few face moves and back right to the crack for a slightly easier option as the crack and fric...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Ice Cream Parlor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "intermittent stream" crossing on way to...
"intermittent stream" crossing on way to...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cody at the beginning of an unknown 5.6ish slab to...
Cody at the beginning of an unknown 5.6ish slab to...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyson Arp halfway up Crack One.  Photo by Chris Mo...
Tyson Arp halfway up Crack One. Photo by Chris Mo...
Rock Climbing Photo: yeah, that's it.
BETA PHOTO: yeah, that's it.
Rock Climbing Photo: winter sunset view from the ICP
winter sunset view from the ICP
Rock Climbing Photo: Slabbin' at the Ice Cream Parlor.
Slabbin' at the Ice Cream Parlor.
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of Ice Cream Parlor, this one showing...
Another view of Ice Cream Parlor, this one showing...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ice Cream Parlor slab with Kane Creek Canyon in th...
Ice Cream Parlor slab with Kane Creek Canyon in th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice killer 5.6 /7 on the right side of the wall.....
Nice killer 5.6 /7 on the right side of the wall.....
Rock Climbing Photo: Cody working his way up the 5.6ish slab at the Ice...
Cody working his way up the 5.6ish slab at the Ice...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lexie relaxing after a few ice cream cones.
Lexie relaxing after a few ice cream cones.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cactus in Bloom Base of Ice Cream Parlor April, 20...
Cactus in Bloom Base of Ice Cream Parlor April, 20...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Ice Cream Parlor
BETA PHOTO: The Ice Cream Parlor
Rock Climbing Photo: 7 y.o. Zachary, decending after climbing the 5.6is...
7 y.o. Zachary, decending after climbing the 5.6is...

Comments on Ice Cream Parlor Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 12, 2017
By Anonymous Coward
May 24, 2004
Saw the area 05/22/04. There are actually many more routes in the Ice Cream Parlor that have not made this site yet. A friendly group we met up there pointed out a 5.6 trad route to anchors, another 5.7 trad route to anchors, and we saw anchors for about three other routes that aren't in any guide books yet. I don't know any names or any other info on the newer routes... sorry. Though, we could have done more climbing if we had bigger cams... bring a big rack with big pro for some of the routes that are not on this site yet. Great area!
By grega Albrechtsen
Mar 24, 2006
Climbed around here for the first time last week. Good fun. A few bolted routes (not in guide) around the 3-crack area. They appeared to be around 5.8/5.9's and a 5.10 far right. We climbed a crack just right of Knee Grinder (I think). The route went: up an "easy" water groove, through a dirty BD#4 bulge, thin fingers corner (i.e. hard to protect), right around a roof, up to some anchor/slings. The Bjornstad guide misrepresents this line (i.e. lists it twice differently). Anyone know what it is??
By dkmzligon
From: Thornton, CO
Apr 4, 2007
The Ice Cream Parlor is a great area for climbers that want a relaxed atmosphere. Great for families because it has climbs for all abilities (5.6 - 5.11). Good top anchors make setting top ropes a breeze.
By denise 911
From: fort collins, co
Mar 30, 2008
nice south facing wall with some good variety in routes. looks like they closed off the camping area for parking (or maybe due to jeep safari that was going on)? wide spot in the road still fits a few cars. Perfect setting for a relaxed afternoon at the crag.
By Greg D
From: Here
Apr 7, 2008
Here is a guide to put the routes in order from left to right. (updated 11/06/08)

Starting from the lower left: Pandemic 10+, Kura Burnan 12, Rattler 11.

Up the hill approx 50 feet/30 feet down and left from slabs: Unkown 8 (left slanting finger crack).

At the left side of slabs: 5.6 Corner, 10TR, Parlor Game 9 (3 bolts). Unkown 7 (approx 5 bolts).

Right of gully: Black Slab 6 (Bolts - 2 different starts), Slab 7 (bolts), Crack 3 8 TR, Crack 2 8R or TR, Crack 1 (aka Wolverine) 8, Hot Carl Sunday 10b/c bolts, RP City 10b, same start as RP City is Vanilla Cream 10a mixed.

traverse right on ledge to Freezer Burn and "Not RP City" 10a with one bolt at start then moves right into corner/crack system (incorrectly listed as RP City in Rock Climbing Utah).

A hundred yards right get on ledge and traverse left to (from left to right): A Good Day to Die 9, Ice Cream Parlor Crack 11b, Pulp Friction 11, The Coffin 9, The Possessed 11c bolts, Knee Grinder 9+ (right of and behind Possessed with same anchor).

Right of Knee Grinder (not 100% sure of the following. they all exist but not sure of order): Deathtrap 8, T-Rex II/11c/4 pitches, basterdized old route.

See topo:
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Mar 16, 2009
There is a route between Unknown 8 and 5.6 Corner that starts on either splitter fingers or a wide slot, then climbs through rubble to a two bolt anchor. It is incredibly loose between the initial splitter or offwidth and the anchors, and should be avoided at all cost. Toproping this route WILL cause rock fall.
By Reedrombo
From: Home is where you park it
Mar 14, 2010
Reference Greg D's comment. I just climbed Ice Cream Parlor 2 days ago. There are quite a few sport slab climbs that are easy and fun. we swung over and top roped the 10 to the left side of the slab, thats actually the best slab climb i did during my entire stay in Moab, it was great! Its a great place, good view, we were sad it was the last place we checked out we didnt even get to make it down to the right side. Also, slab climb number 3 has two pitches. The second pitch is bolted as well and is really easy so good for multi pitch practice. The last bolt to the chains is pretty run out but you can literally walk to it. Good stuff!
By Scott H.
From: Sandy, UT
Dec 7, 2011
I had a bit of a hard time finding the location of this area based on the provided directions. I think a few things have changed over the years. Camping is not allowed at the pullout/ parking area and there are several cattle guards along Kane creek. I found it easiest if you head into the canyon from Moab. After descending into the canyon there is an intermittent stream crossing just after you pass a campsite area on the left. Then after the canyon begins to open up and the road turns to the left there is a pullout on the left for this area. I hope that helps.
By Greg D
From: Here
Jun 30, 2012
Some recent updates were in order. So, Scott H's post may not apply any longer.
By rain cloud
From: the abyss (kansas)
Apr 23, 2015
This place is a zoo, literally like 2 dogs to each human, plus babies. Glad I showed up at the crack of dawn and left when the hoards showed up. good rock quality, fun climbs, shouldn't really complain.
By holmesannie22
Mar 12, 2017
I think I may have left a pair of orange Scarpa climbing shoes and white black diamond helmet here. If anyone found it, I would be super grateful if you contacted me!

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