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Ice crags for SF bay area residents (yeah, right?)

Original Post
Rob Coleman · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

So, I'm newish to ice, but I'm hooked. With the winter approaching, and I'm excited to get out for as many trips as I can mange. The problem is, I live in the SF bay area.

I've been through TMP's db, and from what I see, Lee Vining is the the only beginner - intermediate friendly ice near me (this is actually where I was climbing last season). I'm hoping that there are other crags within a days drive (N.Cal., Southern Oregon, N. Nevada) that I don't know about.

Since I'm newish, and have only placed a few dozen ice screws in my life, and a few v-threads, leading is out. So, I'm looking for places that have bolted anchors or reasonable gear/screw anchors that are retrievable.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

christoph benells · · tahoma · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 306

lake tahoe will get ice in cold, low snow conditions.

Rainbow falls near donner pass, or sunny falls behind eagle lake are both top ropeable by slingin' trees.

The donner peak Nordwand can be fun, it can get several lengths of ice on it.

there is a more reliable little flow at donner just west of snowshed wall, which has a bolted anchor.

Also ice bouldering inside the train tunnels at donner pass, and drytool practice on the manmade retaining wall at the train tunnels can be fun too.

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

Plan a multi-day trip to Ouray, CO. this winter. It's a bit of a drive, but you'll get to climb a HUGE variety of ice, and its pretty much all top-rope. Your arms will give out long before you run out of routes to climb. Hotels are reasonable, and you can even soak in the hot springs in town when the day is done.

Michael Sammartino · · Eagle, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

I used to live in the Bay and, with all this climate change/ drought business, it'll be hard to find ice to climb in California.k

That being said, I now live in a small town on Colorado's Western slope. I'm a short drive to the ice climbing up the I-70 cooridor near Vail, within two hours of about twenty different 14ers and countless peaks of lesser height known for epic ice floes, as well as am about a three hour drive to Ouray. So, I'm putting a call out. If you're from California and are itching to climb some ice, come to Colorado! I own a condo up here and will happily swap room/ board for a belay.

christoph benells · · tahoma · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 306

tahoe ice is best in drought conditions. 2 years ago, lowest precip winter in 100 years, had great ice for the better part of 2 months.

also, dont forget alpine ice climbing, coming into condition soon, on North Peak and U- notch/ v notch etc...https://www.mountainproject.com/v/north-peak/106637283

doesn't fit your toproping needs, but its easy, and you only YOLO once right?

ethannowak · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 50

I'm no ice expert but the previous posts seem right to me. I've seen good ice at Lake Audrain (at Echo Summit) but it's hard to time right and doesn't seem like it'd be easy to TR. Did you check out June Lake when you were down by Lee Vining? There are TR anchors there that you can access without leading and the approach is a lot shorter than Lee Vining Canyon. It's still kind of a trip from the Bay in winter but if you don't want to go to Colorado it's nice too.

vincent L. · · Redwood City · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 560

Don't forget abut Widow's Tears and Silver Strand in Yosemite ... it could happen

mountainproject.com/v/widow…

Rob Coleman · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks for the responses everyone. I guess there is a little more out there than I was aware of, that I can manage as the most experienced person in a group. If I want to really spend more time out on ice, and mixed, I need to pound the ground and find some more experienced climbers that need a belay monkey.

christoph benells · · tahoma · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 306

if ice climbing comes in in tahoe this year (it does most years), go.

there will be bunches of people top roping and would let you take some turns.

cascade falls is the beginner climbing area and there is usually top ropes strung out all acrossed it.

Aaron Baumann · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 85
Michael Sammartino wrote:I used to live in the Bay and, with all this climate change/ drought business, it'll be hard to find ice to climb in California.k That being said, I now live in a small town on Colorado's Western slope. I'm a short drive to the ice climbing up the I-70 cooridor near Vail, within two hours of about twenty different 14ers and countless peaks of lesser height known for epic ice floes, as well as am about a three hour drive to Ouray. So, I'm putting a call out. If you're from California and are itching to climb some ice, come to Colorado! I own a condo up here and will happily swap room/ board for a belay.
Sick offer!! I may take you up on it ;)

(also from SF Bay)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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