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Smugglers Notch Ice climbing

Select Area...
01E - The Workout Wall 
02W - Jeff Slide Area (aka The Classroom) 
03W - ENT Gully Area 
04W - Quartz Crack Face Area 
05W - Easy Gully Area 
06E - The Playground Area 
08E - Elephant's Head Area 
10W - The Blind Fate Area 
13E - The South Wall Area 
14E - The Upper South Wall 
15W - Driving Force Area 
16E - Spruce Peak Crags 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Sunny Hollow Loop
A pretty thorough visit to Sunny Hollow. Near Winooski, Vermont
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Hinesburg Town Forest Ride
This is a nice 1-hour+ (fast) loop in the Hinesburg Town Forest ending with Passing the Horizon. Near Hinesburg, Vermont
Pinner
Combine with Slight Return for an easier loop in the Carse Hills. Near Hinesburg, Vermont
Mobbs Valley MTB Trail
The marked MTB trail on the valley side of Mobbs Farm. Near Jericho, Vermont
Blueberry Lake Loop
An IMBA Gateway trail network tucked into the Mad River Valley. Near Warren, Vermont
From MP's sister site:

Smugglers Notch Ice climbing Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.555, -72.79619 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Luc-514, Kris Fiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: bradley white on Dec 27, 2009  with updates from tfarr3
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Jefferson Slide looking down from approach above

Seasonal Raptor Closures 2016 For access issues: please review cragvt.org MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Smuggler's Notch has some of the best ice climbing and definitively the best mixed climbing in the Green Mountain State. Often referred to as "Smuggs" or "The Notch" by locals, it is comprised of climbing along the closed portion of Route 108 between Jeffersonville in the north and Stowe in the south, Smuggler's Notch is a gem of New England Climbing.

The approach times very greatly by snow conditions. Getting to Easy Gully from the Stone Hut, for example, can take 35 minutes or well over an hour depending on how much snow has come in and if the trail has been beaten in. Expect this for most climbs.

Climbs listed are from North to South and the 'W' or 'E' denotes whether a climb is on the west or east side of the road.

Getting There 

Ice climbing in The Notch can be approached by either the Stowe or Jeffersonville side. Generally, Jeffersonville is used to approach most climbing but use the next section as your guide.

Rt. 108 through the notch is closed from virtually the first snowfall of the season and usually stays closed until spring long after the ice is gone. As long as there is snowpack it's recommended to bring some kind of skis for the approach as the road is skiable throughout 90% of the ice season save for the first few weeks.

The lots on both sides of the road closure are almost always open on weekdays and usually fill up on weekends. If climbing on a weekend, plan to be there early, the Jeffersonville side has more spots but is also more popular.

Areas 

Areas from Jeffersonville (from Stowe), distances on the road from the parking/gate.
1.2 (1.8), Stone Hut
1.3 (1.7), High Point in Road
  • 1.35 (1.65), west side, Hidden Gully
  • 1.5 (1.5), west side, Terror-Tory

GPS MAP WITH AREAS LABELED courtesy of Max Forbes:

caltopo.com/m/RH9Q

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.1 miles from here

24 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Smugglers Notch Ice climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Smugglers Notch Ice climbing:
Ragnarock   WI4+ M4     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400'   08E - Elephant's Head Area
Hidden Gully   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 650'   10W - The Blind Fate Area
Jefferson Slide   WI3- M1-2 PG13     Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   02W - Jeff Slide Area (aka ...
Blue Room   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 160'   13E - The South Wall Area
Elephant's head gully   WI3-     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 170'   08E - Elephant's Head Area
Blind Fate   WI4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 350'   10W - The Blind Fate Area
Dave's Snotsicle   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 200'   13E - The South Wall Area
Grand Illusion   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 300'   05W - Easy Gully Area
Poster Child   WI4 M4+     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 125'   05W - Easy Gully Area
Easy Gully   WI2-     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 400'   05W - Easy Gully Area
Grand Confusion   WI3     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   05W - Easy Gully Area
ENT Gully Variation   WI3+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   03W - ENT Gully Area
Left Ampitheater   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   15W - Driving Force Area
Workout Wall   WI3-4     Trad, TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   01E - The Workout Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Smugglers Notch Ice climbing

Featured Route For Smugglers Notch Ice climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: Feb 15 2016

Dave's Snotsicle WI3-4  Vermont : Vermont Ice Climbing : ... : 13E - The South Wall Area
The very start is often thin, but there are various ways of reaching the ledge of the main flow, so whatever looks doable is usually the best approach. The rest of the climb follows obvious ice with WI3 and WI4 options. A deciduous tree (I don't remember what kind, but might be beech) is the belay and rappel station for the final pitch. Two 60m ropes are handy for the descent. I have only done this climb once, so if anyone has better beta, please mention it. Great exposure and several route...[more]   Browse More Classics in Vermont

Comments on Smugglers Notch Ice climbing Add Comment
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By bradley white
From: Bend
Nov 11, 2012
Does the narrow no escape thin gully near Elephant Head, have a name? I got on it in 1986 and thought it would never end. Ice got shallow often and was not brittle. Same moves over and over again though.