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Ice Climbing harnesses

Original Post
Kyle Thompson · · Spearfish, SD · Joined May 2008 · Points: 76

Has anyone here tried both the Arc'teryx X350a and the BD Xenos? Or any info on where either harnesses ice clipper slots are? I am trying to figure out how well located the ice clipper slots are. I have the older BD Blizzard and hate where the ice clipper slots are. I always seem to have a screw in the crotch or behind me that I need. I have the R320 Arc' Teryx and really love it. Finally, how well does the Xenos pack? Thanks in advance!

mattb19 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 250

I have the arcteryx x350a and love the hell outta it. I too was unfortuante enough to buy the original BD Blizzard and suffered many a winters with that dam thing. This last winter I got over 70 days with my x350a and I would not trade it for the world.

The ice slots are well placed and the gear loops are nice and big. The harness allows one to rack cams, alpine draws, screws and whatever your heart my desire very well. The great thing about it is that even when it is weighted down it is still very comfortable. It is pricy but you get what you pay for. As to the new BD I have no info to provide. Sorry.

kirra · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 530

maaaatt ~(:

in 10 words or < what didn't you like about the old blizzard -I think I have one, thx

Mike Larson · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2006 · Points: 95

If you already have the 320 you don't need the ice version. Just throw on a couple of petzl ice clippers on and it works better than any 'ice' harness out there. Just locate the clippers as far back on the first gear loop as possible. This setup is better located than the 350 slots. Plus you save yourself about a hundred bucks.

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,326

I have used both the Blizzard and the X350A. The ice clipper slots are way better on the X350A. The slot on the right side of the X350A in front of the gear loops is positioned perfectly for easy screw access. The Blizzard, in smaller sizes, puts the clipper slots right in the middle of the gear loops. This leads to a major hassle.

Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325

Well.... guess I'm going to be the lone voice on the other side...

I loved the heck out of the original Blizzard. When they came out with the newer version a year to two later (the one with the plastic on the back and around each end of the gear loops, they completely screwed up (no pun intended) the placement of the clipper slots. As has been said, too far forward or waaaay too far back.

While I love my Arcteryx R320, I gotta say that I don't care at all for the clipper slot placement on the X350a. First off, why 3???? Why not 4? Don't know about you guys, but most of the routes I climb, I need enough screws that 4 clippers are very handy. The two slots on the back are placed pretty well but the single front one is waaaay too far forward, and I'm always jabbing my leg (and very expensive pants) on steep terrain. One of my climbing partners has exactly the same problem. I actually stopped using it in favor of the much heavier and bulkier Wild Country Elite Synchro just due to this issue.

The BD Xenos is "problem solved." A couple of ounces heaver than the X350a, but similar construction, speed adjust buckles, comfortable, non-bulky, and good placement of the SIX clipper slots. Much burlier than the old Blizzard slots too so no worries about them tearing and losing part of the rack. Did I mention $30 cheaper too? One down side is the gear loops are a bit small though I got a set of nuts, a full run of cams, 12 draws, and 2 Screamers on them comfortably last weekend, plus 6 screws on clippers. As always, YMMV.

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,326

If you can find one, the Grivel Panpipe, is great for carrying screws.
grivel.com/Products/img_chi…
I have used one for years.

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

Hey I have an Arc Teryx x350a that I want to get rid of. I have used it maybe 4 times. I would let it go for $95.00. I just like more simple harnesses i.e. BD focus. pm me if you want it. I am in Salt Lake but willing to ship.

Mike Larson · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2006 · Points: 95
Kevin Craig wrote:Sorry Mike, gotta disagree on the Petzl "Caritool" aka ice clipper. While I like the bigger clip feature for attaching it to a harness, I tried one once and played hell trying to get screws off the damn thing. Looking at it, I have no idea why as it looks nearly identical to the BD clipper, but it seems to have something to do with design or construction of the gate. The BDs are definitely easier.
I need to heavily qualify my previous statement. The big reason why I think the petzl ones are better is that, simply, I can actually fit my Nomics inside the clippers. I find racking screws on the BD or petzl clippers to be the same. YMMV. The Nomics however are pretty bulky in the head, particularly compared to BD tools, and if you try to clip them into BD clippers they'll stick out from your sides like wings. This is a big deal for me since I constantly find myself clipping my tools into my clippers. So like most gear, it isn't a clear cut answer. Accordingly, I have redacted my previous statement in my other post.
rhyang · · San Jose, CA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 620

I'm very leery about racking ice tools on any of these plastic ice-clipper thingies since one broke while I was on rappel, sending my Quark into (fortunately) soft snow below .. could have been a bad scene ..

Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325
Mike Larson wrote: I need to heavily qualify my previous statement. The big reason why I think the petzl ones are better is that, simply, I can actually fit my Nomics inside the clippers. I find racking screws on the BD or petzl clippers to be the same. YMMV. The Nomics however are pretty bulky in the head, particularly compared to BD tools, and if you try to clip them into BD clippers they'll stick out from your sides like wings. This is a big deal for me since I constantly find myself clipping my tools into my clippers. So like most gear, it isn't a clear cut answer. Accordingly, I have redacted my previous statement in my other post.
Yep, this is a really good and valid point regarding the Nomics in the BD clippers. I have exactly this problem.

Regarding rhyang's concern, in what is closing in on a decade of ice climbing, I think I've only ever seen a clipper break once and that was under extreme duress. Certainly it can happen, and I'm not totally discounting his experience, but overall, I think it's a pretty rare occurrence and don't plan to stop racking my tools on my clippers.
SackAttack Iceiceice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 5

I have the Xenos and love it to death, best harness I have ever used with 60 days of ice and still looks brand new. I had the 350, it wore out fast, this was really frustrating. On my harness I due use the Petzl ice clipers for the fact I use Nomics. It may take a second longer to pack but does almost as well.

mattb19 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 250
Mike Larson wrote: I need to heavily qualify my previous statement. The big reason why I think the petzl ones are better is that, simply, I can actually fit my Nomics inside the clippers. I find racking screws on the BD or petzl clippers to be the same. YMMV. The Nomics however are pretty bulky in the head, particularly compared to BD tools, and if you try to clip them into BD clippers they'll stick out from your sides like wings. This is a big deal for me since I constantly find myself clipping my tools into my clippers. So like most gear, it isn't a clear cut answer. Accordingly, I have redacted my previous statement in my other post.

I agree with Mike on this. Not to mention the petzl caritools have a bigger clip on the inside to keep them from rotating on your harness. I don't know if BD changed their design but the ice clippers I have rotate really badly on my harness.

kirra, as to the Blizzard I hated racking screws, cams and slings due to the placement of the ice clipper slots.

The 350a does only have three slots so if you like lots of screws then it can be a problem. I only use two clippers so that has never been a problem for me. Also nateclimb mentions wear on the harness as a problem he had. I have worn my harness almost every day since February and it is still in great shape. I like mine so much I just started to wear it on all trad climbs.
kirra · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 530
rhyang wrote:I'm very leery about racking ice tools on any of these plastic ice-clipper thingies since one broke while I was on rappel
everyone knows you shouldn't rap off of the same thingie you rack your tools on
Rob P · · Duluth, MN · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 458

I just got a Black Diamond Xeno. I haven't used it for ice yet, but on rock this thing's great! Light weight and very comfortable. Hanging belays haven't been a problem at all. There are six ice clipper slots. One above each gear loop, and one in-between both sets of gear loops. It comes with one cari-tool, and one of those plastic strips that you can make into a pseudo-caritool with a carabiner.

I'm happy with it!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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