|Original: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Equipped by Brent Larsen. FA: Katie Graue|
|Season: ||Summer if your are soft. Winter if you are tough. Spring and Fall. Whenever|
|Page Views: ||88|
|Submitted By: ||BBQ on Nov 27, 2013|
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Ice Buckets, 5.8+ Ice Box, Spearfish Canyon. South...
A fun ass moderate with HUGE holds. Getting to the first bucket at the beginning requires some creativity and footwork right off the deck. Don't fight the fun! Find the good toe pockets. Stand up big and gain a bucket of a ledge. Now it's time to go get some! There is a left-hand, thumb down fingerlock crux section at the second bolt which then leads climbers into some semi-pumpy terrain. WATCH FOR SLOPERS! Feel around for sidepulls and other not-so-obvious holds that will gain you to the second ice bucket and a slabby battlefield of JUGS in between sections of THINKER MOVES on small holds that require some powerful movement to savior jugs and sweet rests.
Breath in and feel that ice flowing in your veins! Claw your way past more pockets, both big and small, gain a ledge and a series of underclings that forces the climber left into good, hidden holds around the arete. Find a sick, three-finger pocket, lift your hind leg onto the ledge and gain another ice bucket! From there trend right into another armada of pockets. Be sure to feel around for the right ones and think sidepull to clip! Gain the ledge with more bucket sized pockets and mantle your way to the anchors. This route is chock full of sick, slabby goodness with a few hard moves. A GREAT ROUTE FOR THE GRADE! Some climbers might find it to be a test of route finding skills and endurance.
Park at Shadowlands. Cross the road. Locate an overhung boulder and walk on the left hand side of it. Find a trail that tends right behind this boulder. Gain a flat area with four sick, blonde climbs and a short, black rock with four bolts in it. Locate the alcove that is just past the slabby, black rock with four bolts in it. Ice Buckets is on the left hand side of the first black wall that you easily see as you make your way towards the road. THIS ROUTE IS MOSTLY SHADY! Sees brief amounts of sun in the afternoon.
Bring 10 quickdraws. Stick clip first and second bolts if you unsure about the bulgy, somewhat of a boulder problem start.
Katie makes a good grab on Ice Buckets.