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Ian's Climb 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Pat and Azenda Thompson, 2002
Page Views: 2,806
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Dec 25, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (154)
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Staci starting.


Ian's Route is located between Alexi's Climb and Red Eclipse and shares anchors with Red Eclipse. The climb starts in the corner/crack formed by semi-detached pillar on the left and the face on the right. Bouldery opening moves take you past the first couple of bolts, past the top of the Alexi pillar, and onto a fun arete where the climbing becomes significantly easier. Continue up and right to the Red Eclipse anchors. It is a fun route; worth doing if you are in the area. Harder variations are possible.


Seven bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos of Ian's Climb Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cactus Cliff - Right (1).  The Price is Right is n...
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (1). The Price is Right is n...
Rock Climbing Photo: Up to his forehead in the crack - I like it! Cody ...
Up to his forehead in the crack - I like it! Cody ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave leading Ian's.  Photo by Carl Brockhoff.
Dave leading Ian's. Photo by Carl Brockhoff.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tanya leading Ian's.
Tanya leading Ian's.
Rock Climbing Photo: Making the final moves on Ian's Climb. March 2011.
Making the final moves on Ian's Climb. March 2011.
Rock Climbing Photo: About to start the upper crux.
About to start the upper crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sarah on Ian's.
Sarah on Ian's.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sarah leading.
Sarah leading.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the ledge at the top of Alexi's Route....
Approaching the ledge at the top of Alexi's Route....
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik Marr top roping Ian's Route.
Erik Marr top roping Ian's Route.

Comments on Ian's Climb Add Comment
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By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jan 27, 2003

This is "Ian's Route" FA: Pat & Azenda Thompson, fall 2002. FA party thought it checked in at 5.7, but it may a bit harder as your reported grade suggests.
By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2003

5.7 is probably a pretty accurate assessment of the route. I was trying hard not to reach over and use holds on the Alexi's Route pinnacle. Harder variations are possible if you stay right of the bolt line. Still a fun lead, however you do it! Enjoy and thanks for the info.
By Larry Shaw
Jul 17, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Felt in the .7 range, watch out for loose rock at the top.
By Ray Lovestead
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 9, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Super fun, rare, fist-sized crack climb. Definitely 5.7. Called "Ian's Climb" in the Shelf Road Rock book.
By Steve Knapp
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Nov 22, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Nice fun crack just right of super easy Alexi's route. Crux is near the second bolt, but the holds are all there. Agree that it's a touch harder than 5.7 at the crux. Also a bit harder than 5.7 if you stay on the face/arete at the last bolt instead of moving left near the Alexi's route anchor. This is a good route to use to setup a top rop for Red Eclipse or Solar Eclipse (which we did and enjoyed profusely).
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
May 11, 2010

Probably the best of the four or so routes nearby.
By Baumer
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This can be led on gear if you're so inclined. It's no harder (probably easier) than Crynoid Corner, so I'd say 5.7 is the correct rating.
By jamesm
From: Canon City, Co
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I personally love this little area. It's tucked up out of the wind and is a great spot to bring a bunch of friends, ranging from pro climbers to noobs. This 5.7 is a great push for new climbers liking big cracks after they have warmed up on the 5.5 to the left, and for you pros there is a lot of 5.9s and harder to the right. Ohhh, about 1/4 of the way up, look for the big piece of fossilized wood as a main handhold. It's kinda cool.

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