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A Frog in My Hand T 
Birthday Party T 
Blow Hard T 
Don't Forget My Boots! T 
Good God, a Cow Cut in Two! T 
Hang On, Kid! T 
I Could Eat a Horse T 
I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat T 
More Catastrophic than 'Armageddon' T 
One Year Later (Un An Plus Tard) T 
Putrid Rat T 
Shark Ride T 
What Have You Done with My Walls? T 
What on Earth? TR 

I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jeff Mahoney and Alex Lau, 9/2/12
Page Views: 1,533
Submitted By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 21, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Patrick Callery enjoys perfect fingers near the to...

Description 

The attractive lightning bolt line below the big oak tree on the right side of Wall 3 Tower.

Rock Climbing Photo: Alex Lau enjoying the wonderful fingers following ...
Alex Lau enjoying the wonderful fingers following on the FA of "I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat"


A contender for the best finger-crack route in the area (if only the upper part were a lot longer, alas). Head straight up to the horizontal, step right and go. The rock is on the soft side and skidaddly down low but gear will become abundant. Sew it up or just enjoy the ride. Build an anchor off the tree.

It's a good idea to set up a toprope and run a lap on "What on Earth?" and/or "Cow" and/or "I Could Eat a Horse" if you're in that kinda mood. (And, if you rap off here, double check that the webbing hasn't been chewed through again.)

Rock Climbing Photo: Bill Flaherty looking for a placement before the h...
Bill Flaherty looking for a placement before the horizontal on "I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat"

Protection 

A rack of singles to 4" and a few extra finger pieces if you want to sew it up. (Pink, red & brown tri-cams and/or some offset nuts work well, too.)


Photos of I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The deliciousness that is the "Pussy"
BETA PHOTO: The deliciousness that is the "Pussy"

Comments on I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat Add Comment
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By Richard Shore
Apr 27, 2014

Very nice line; certainly a contender for "best 15' finger crack" in SB, and undoubtedly the best (and only?) 5.8 finger crack. This is the cleanest line on the wall with excellent gear and jamming. I personally prefer Gnome Fingers, but this is a close 2nd.
By Cori Tite
From: Sylmar, CA
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I was up there Saturday afternoon (5/3/14) and installed a new rappel station that is positioned closer to the edge of the cliff than the original one(the original rap station with the webbing that keeps getting chewed is difficult to inspect and is set a small distance back from the wall). Hopefully the new rappel station will not be as enticing to the local critters versus the original one; it is definitely easier to inspect.
By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 5, 2014

Thanks, Cori. If the wear on the tree or the constant gnawing turns into a rat's nest of webbing, I'll most likely put in some rings. Glad you got up there this weekend (hopefully you hit the pools afterward).
By Cori Tite
From: Sylmar, CA
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Hitting the pool was required once we got there to cool off from the approach before we climbed. It was hot on Saturday and we felt a bit beat down by the sun before we even got to the crag. We left the crag late so a post climb swim was a bit out of the question. Nothing quite like a hike back from the crag with the ol' headlamp.
By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 5, 2014

Well, if it's any consolation, we'll be putting our "sport" crag on here soon, which is north-facing and has a 4-minute approach---but sadly only 40 routes...
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
May 13, 2014

The excellent finger crack up high has already been commented on, but this route also boasts outstanding hands lower down.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Jul 27, 2014

Every bit as good as people say it is. Great for the burgeoning 5.8 leader.

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