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I Turkey/ Resurrection 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Sonnenfeld
Page Views: 4,106
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Darren working the arete on Resurrection - Photo b...

Description 

This has technical arete climbing, finishing with a reach out left to a finger crack which is followed to the top. It was bolted, chopped, and rebolted, hence the name.

-It does not receive the traffic it deserves.
-Originally it was graded 5.11d, but it's quite a bit harder than that.

Location 

This is the arete left of Whimsical Dreams, starting off of the Rasmussen's ledge.

Protection 

Bolts (Buttonheads) and finger-sized cams for the top, bolt anchor.


Photos of I Turkey/ Resurrection Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: LauraSch hiking I Turkey.
LauraSch hiking I Turkey.
Rock Climbing Photo: I-Turkey butt shot.
I-Turkey butt shot.
Rock Climbing Photo: Darren low on the arete.
Darren low on the arete.

Comments on I Turkey/ Resurrection Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 6, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

This is one of the best routes at this grade I have done in a while. Awesome position and movement. Classic finish.

Some gear beta: an Alien will protect the opening moves getting to the first clip. There are 6 bolts on the arete and great clipping stances, the last one is kind of tricky clip. Along with some finger sized cams, a large hand-sized cam would also help for the finish. like a #2 or #3 Camalot. There is not a bolted anchor as suggested above, but rather rap off the Whimsy cable anchor.
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Jun 4, 2010

I've done this a bunch over the years. A really super route, but I agree with an 11+/12a rating. Yellow Alien protects the bottom, bring some hand size for the top.
By kirkadirka
From: Boulder
Mar 5, 2012

Can anyone attest to the age of these bolts? A number of them are spinners and not very confidence inspiring.

Super cool line, would love to see some bomber bolts replacing the old ones.
By Lisa Montgomery
From: Golden, CO
Feb 18, 2013

Easy to toprope without drag if you attach double length slings to the Whimsical anchor and drape them back over the route.
By Noah McKelvin
From: Colorado Springs
Oct 20, 2015
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Tough! Maybe it was the hot sun making the holds hard to grab, or my weakness. Probably the latter!
By Nick Schlichtman
From: Golden, CO
Apr 24, 2016

Bolts are scary on this thing. Buttonheads with spinners. Just an FYI.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
May 24, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a stunning line! Awesome movement working both sides of the arete and the crack finish is really cool. The crack protects well with #0.3 - #3 Camalots (no #2). The cable anchor atop Whimsical has been replaced with two modern bolts way up and right. Makes for a very abrasive top rope for I Turkey.
The bolts on the route are what appear to be 5/16 buttonheads with SMC hangers. They seem nice and tight, but, I agree, they really should be replaced with modern hardware. This route is amazing and would probably get done more often with good bolts.

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