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I Smell Bacon! 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Billy Smallen and Brandan Ryel, 7/2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: Billy Smallen on May 25, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Topo for I Smell Bacon!

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A really good line, I highly recommend it! There are two starts. The original one I climbed goes straight up a two move tips/funky lieback crack which turns into the main crack system at the first ledge. You can also go up a 5.7 finger crack off left. From that first ledge climb a 5.9 splitter small hands crack in a corner (that you wish would never end) as it becomes slightly lower angle. Before you have to start placing 0.75 camalots traverse the face left (about 5.8 although it looks harder) to the arete on the left side. Go lower if it seems hard. Climb though a roof (crux) to a dirty flared hands crack. Once over that you will be on a ledge. Climb left around a second roof and finish in a 5.9 mossy offwidth which is around the corner to the left.

There are a bunch of variations. You could stay in the crack and traverse under the roof to the arete (5.11a) and there is a SPLITTER finger crack going out the 10 or so feet on the roof which looks awesome. Instead of traversing to the OW you can go right and climb the face (5.10+) to the top but it is kinda loose and dirty (also kinda fun!).

Location 

See approach info for the crag... As you hike up the hill after taking a right at the top of the boulder field you will see a giant corner with a roof on top and a hand crack on the right side. To get to the start scramble up a couple ledges.

Protection 

Your first piece on the right start will be a black alien. Other than that, bring double aliens and 2-3 camalots to #3. If you wanted to walk a cam up the offwidth you could bring a #4.5 but you can get #3's in the back so I wouldn't bother. MAKE SURE to bring some medium stoppers. A BD stopper goes in PERFECT in a crack on the face just right of the arete after the traverse.

While the climb requires 130ft of rope, much of that is due to the traverses -- you can rappel and TR it with one 60m rope. Just make sure to flip your rope around the roof when traversing to the arete. There is a sling around a tree with rings to rap off.


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