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I, Robot 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kurt Gray and Charly Oliver, 1979
Page Views: 7,678
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (163)
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BETA PHOTO: I, Robot, 5.7.

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  • Description 

    Start in the shallow, right-facing dihedral, about 2 feet to the left of the tree. Climb up to the ledge 10 feet up and slightly left, and then follow the crack running up and right to the top.


    Look for the two trees, and bring long slings (20 feet).

    Photos of I, Robot Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Near the crux at the bottom.
    Near the crux at the bottom.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Per M. Morley:  1 - I, Robot. 2 - Are We Not Men. ...
    BETA PHOTO: Per M. Morley: 1 - I, Robot. 2 - Are We Not Men. ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: I, Robot in the center. Fun finger locks at the to...
    BETA PHOTO: I, Robot in the center. Fun finger locks at the to...

    Comments on I, Robot Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By pete cogan
    Sep 23, 2002

    This route can also be led with a standard rack, up to a #3.5 Camalot. The crack that I went up, moving left to right diagonally as you look up was flaring, but it did take two cams. Leading this is certainly an option before it gets covered in top ropes, although the flaring cracks made the pro less than ideal.

    Not just for top roping!
    By Kevin Craig
    May 28, 2005

    If you lead this, make sure to have plenty of small gear for the thin fingers crack up above. Small nuts and Aliens work well. Some good finger locks in the crack, but the feet are mostly smears at the crux (a small bulge) - harder than it looks from below, but 5.7 feels about right.
    By Jason Shatek
    Mar 21, 2006

    Cool crux, it's lots of fun if you only use the finger crack and don't wimp out and go left. There is a fixed stopper at the crux as of 3/18/06. I would say only using the finger crack by itself could go at 5.8.
    By Jo Holloway
    Sep 30, 2006
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I just did this as my first 5.7 lead. I found it relatively straight-forward to sew up the finger-crack on the upper part of the pitch with finger-sized cams (e.g., blue to yellow Aliens). If you have small-to-medium sized hands, you can get in some great finger locks that will get you through the smeary crux with limited fretting.
    By mt.wilson
    From: Denver
    Mar 15, 2010

    Sweet finger locks at the top. I would have given 3 stars if it were longer....
    By Rob Davies UK
    From: Cheshire, UK
    Oct 14, 2011
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Taken direct, this has a well-protected UK 5a move in the top crack, so I don't understand the 5.7 rating.
    By Joshinator
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Nov 19, 2011
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I gave this three stars, because the climbing is really great with a lot of fun moves, especially for such a moderate grade.
    By Jim Fox
    From: Westminster, CO
    Jul 6, 2014
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Top half of climb is 3 stars, Great finger crack . Fun climb. The start was a little awkward but not difficult.

    I'd agree with 5.7+ if you use just the crack on the upper part.
    By David Tennant
    From: Denver, CO
    May 22, 2015
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    All about that finger crack. There were also super straightforward gear placements for an anchor when you gain the ledge, so it would be pretty good for setting up a toprope.

    Definitely give it a higher grade if starting in the corner immediately next to the tree, as well as if you stay with the finger crack that takes you to the same ledge as the 5.5 route to the left.
    By Caleb Schwarz
    From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Jul 28, 2017

    On lead, if you stick strictly to the initial corner and the upper finger crack, it turns into quite the challenging route. Flared finger section that's a bit difficult to protect before the awesome last 10 feet of finger crack.

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