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Hillbilly Rock 1
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I Reckon 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Mark Dixon on May 12, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Hillbilly Rock #1, Left Side. I Reckon, 12a; Boy ...

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  • Description 

    This is the leftmost route at Hillbilly - it goes up a short, black face. It is short, powerful, sharp but not painful. This is an exercise in crimpers and underclings. Avoid surprises by scoping the location of all the bolts before leaving the ground. I thought 12a was a reasonable grade, but it's a hard route to onsight, since many of the holds are hard to evaluate (or even see!) from below.

    Addendum: For the Hymenoptera-sensitive, there can be a fairly tenacious bunch of wasps on this climb!

    Protection 

    4 bolts plus anchors.


    Photos of I Reckon Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: I Reckon.  Short and Crimpy.
    BETA PHOTO: I Reckon. Short and Crimpy.

    Comments on I Reckon Add Comment
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    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Sep 21, 2008

    This is a nice, short 12 that makes the walk up worthwhile. Rolofson shows three 12 cruxes (12a, 12b, and 12a), but I don't agree with this assessment. Clipping the first two bolts is much easier than 12. From there, reach up and left to the sidepull. This is the crux section, but is easy 12, not mid-12. A key hold is a crimper ledge above and right of bolt three; don't mess around with the slopey stuff left of 3. Another cruxy move follows to get to bolt 4.
    By slim
    Administrator
    Jul 3, 2013
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    Having done this route both ways (i.e. following the bolt line up and left, going straight up/slightly right) here are a few comments:

    The left version felt way hard for 12a, particularly considering that the FA party generally grades things pretty friendly. I don't know if the heat/humidity had something to do with it, but there are some brutally smooth holds up there. Clipping the bolt was a bitch. I would probably call this way 12b or so, definitely as hard or harder than any 12b I have done yet this year.

    The right version is easier, but there is some mud and vegetation to contend with. Also, the bolt ends up being way out left and hard to clip.

    Between the poison ivy choked approach, length of the route, etc., this is probably a half star route. Not the worst route in Boulder Canyon but probably not worth the hike.
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Oct 28, 2016

    Hard for the grade.

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