I Love a Cigar
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up P4.
Most parties do the first three bolted pitches (10+,10b,10b), which are fantastic, rapping station to station before the crux roof fist crack on the fourth pitch. If you are inclined to take several #4-5 cams up here, it's fun to go all the way up. 5th pitch checks in at 10b, all draws.
Start up the face on a very large flake leaning against the wall, almost in the center of the main wall. It is about 70-80 feet left of Riders in the Sky.
Pitches 1-3: 14 draws. Pitch 4: gear to 5 inches. 2 60m ropes are necessary for the descent raps.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up P2. Traverses up left, following bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Link up traverse from Bill's Route project. (I'm n...
Looking up I'd Love a Cigar. Route starts just le...
By bw 4257
Jul 16, 2007
Just to clarify, to continue above p3 you only need 2 or 3 cams and not a whole rack up to 5". I placed a #3 at the lip of the roof and a #5 a bit above, otherwise it's all bolts.
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Aug 6, 2007
This route starts ONLY 35 feet left of Riders in the Sky. (70-80 feet puts you on Bill's Route [project, according to photo]. So, it's maybe instructive to read my tale.
I started up Bill's Route by mistake. (I didn't even look for another line of bolts, just started 80 feet left of Riders in the Sky.) Did the first 2 pitches: P1 only 100', P2 was <100'. From there I confirmed my mistake and clipped a bolt or 2 (bolt line heads left) and traversed right via an airy hand ledge to the correct prow. I did clip an old 1/4" bolt on the way and the last bolt to the anchors at the top of P2 on I'd Love a Cigar, 75'. Did the correct P3, which is nice. On P4 there's 1 bolt on the way to the hand/fist/ow crack in the roof. A #3 Camalot would be perfect (not that I had one; 4 Friend poorly/barely fits from below). I flailed. Long sleeves may have helped, but I needed a ladder. I think a foot hold has broken off at the lip down left of the crack, and one seems to be broken under the roof, but I just couldn't do it. (I'm not claiming it's a sandbag, 11a is about my limit, and this one was too awkward for me; I'm 5'8" if it matters.) So, I traversed left to Jacob's Ladder and had no problem with that, maybe 10c/d? with lots of bolts. You end up at the same belay, right over that crack in the roof. (I don't remember any rope drag.) I belayed my partner with the trail line to minimize the pendulum risk. It's a short pitch if you can do the roof. [Next time I might look into that U-shaped gully directly above the belay, right of the crack; looks like a #3 Camalot would go at the base and a few stems would get you back into balance, but I forgot to scope it out on the way down. It would need cleaning.] Anyhow, the last pitch is 10b as advertised. (We did P1 afterwards and topped out in the rain, 110'.)