REI Community
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dirty Corner (unknown) T 
I Have a Dream S,TR 
Lucid Dreaming S 
Nerve Damage T 
Plotinus T 
Rama T,S 
Scientist, The T,S 

I Have a Dream 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, TR, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas
Page Views: 819
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, middle.

  • Access Closed MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route is found on the lowest tier of Polotinus Wall, leading up to just below the base of Boulder Quartz System. Follow the line of 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with welded cold shuts. The route seems to be about 5.11. If the route cleans up, it will probably feel 5.10. I was scaling a lot off with the feet though. My partner, who is/was pretty solid on 10's, had a hard time with it for the same reason.
    The difficulty may come more from the scaling, dirty rock down low than from anything inherent to the moves. I felt more likely to slip off than fall off. The line is short and of dubious quality relative to the others at this cliff. A must do only for the true "route collector."


    4 bolts to a bolted anchor with set of welded cold-shuts.You could toprope this route by clipping the top from above, just below the ledge as for the start of Boulder Quartz System.

    Photos of I Have a Dream Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: I Have a Dream from below.  The crux is a difficul...
    BETA PHOTO: I Have a Dream from below. The crux is a difficul...

    Comments on I Have a Dream Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Jun 27, 2014
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    It's short with an interesting boulder problem start. I found some graceful beta off of a tenuous left sidepull. Foot placement and body-tension are important. I thought it was a better warmup for Lucid Dreaming than Mr. Sandman, for instance. Also more convenient. It was pretty dirty, so I gave it a decent brushing. The bolts are placed well, and the crux is engaging enough that it deserves two stars, imo.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About